Drakensberg Traverse Part 2

 

Gear, Team, Food & Lessons from the Trail

 

What to Know Before You Hike the Drakensberg Traverse

Up To Sentinel Peak

This trek is not for beginners.

 

It demands gear, grit, and flexibility. You’ll be in Lesotho most of the time, with little access to rescue or comfort. You may meet shepherds, feel uneasy about giving food, hear tales of cross-border livestock smuggling, or fear AK47-wielding patrols—though we met none, perhaps thanks to the weather.

 

But if you’re lucky, you’ll find something rare: silence, perspective, and an enduring respect for this timeless mountain range.

 

If you’re planning a Drakensberg Northern Traverse hike, prepare for:

 

  • 6–7 days of self-sufficient hiking
  • Variable weather (sun, rain, fog, wind)
  • Altitudes around 3,000m
  • No marked trails (and a lot of bundu bashing) or phone signal
  • Guided group or experienced navigation
Organ Pipes Pass

Why Hike the Drakensberg? A Landscape Like No Other

A Quick Recap

The Drakensberg—or uKhahlamba, meaning “Barrier of Spears”—is a UNESCO World Heritage site rich in history, culture, and biodiversity.

 

Its towering basalt cliffs and hidden valleys offer both challenge and serenity. It’s home to ancient San rock art, rare alpine plants, and unique wildlife.

For hikers, it’s the ultimate test of resilience and reward. No signage. No signal. No shelter—just the wild.

 

And then, of course, there are the infamous Chain Ladders—a vertical gateway to the heavens.

Alpine Fynbos

Day 1 – Chain Ladders, Eland Falls & Climate Research

The Chain Ladders

Our hike began with cold rain and thick mist. The Chain Ladders, perched near Sentinel Car Park, loomed slick and intimidating. We ascended carefully, nerves buzzing.

 

Day 2 – Lesotho Waterfalls, 18 km Trek & Moral Dilemmas

The Tugela Falls

Clear skies revealed the full splendor of the escarpment. We pushed hard to catch up, covering 18 km at 3,000m altitude.

 

We reached camp late near the towering rock spires of Madonna and Her Worshippers, legs trembling, hearts full.

Whiteouts & the Source of the Orange River

The Source Of The Orange River

 

We passed the source of the Orange River, South Africa’s longest river, beginning as a trickle in Lesotho before flowing over 2,000 km to the Atlantic Ocean. I slipped crossing it—bruised but fine. Somehow fitting, falling at the river’s humble beginning.

 

We camped near North Peak, shrouded in clouds.

Day 4 – Torrential Rain & a Makeshift Camp

A-camping we will go

Rain returned with a vengeance.

 

It was the most challenging evening of the trek, rendered sleepless by mental calculations of how little dry and/or waterproof clothes we had left!

Day 5 – Bell Traverse Denied, Roland’s Cave Missed

Whats the Altitude?

We camped again in harsh conditions, dreaming of sun.

Day 6 – The Final Descent to Cathedral Peak Hotel

Its Going Down

It was long—12 km and 1700m down—but worth it.

 

For the full story, go to part 1.

 

Behind the Scenes of the Drakensberg Northern Traverse

The route was one thing—but making it through six days of unpredictable terrain and wild Lesotho weather required more than just grit.

 

It took a well-packed bag, a battle-hardened team, and a few tough lessons. Here’s everything we learned from the inside out.

Our Team: The Zulu Warriors Who Carried Us

We were a team of 9 hikers, accompanied by one lead guide and five legendary porters—two of whom were also certified mountain guides.

 

These men weren’t just porters. They were our lifeline in every storm, our navigators in the mist, and our morale boosters when spirits waned.

 

With unmatched resilience and skill, they set up tents in torrential rain, kept the fire (and food!) going, and led us safely across some of the trickiest terrain the Drakensberg could offer.

 

Without them, we simply would not have made it.

 

Much respect to our Zulu Warriors—formidable, humble, and heroic.

 

Gear We Packed (and Wish We’d Packed Better)

While the mountains ultimately decide how wet, dry, warm or cold you’ll be, the gear you carry makes or breaks your comfort and safety.

 

Key Essentials That Worked:

 

  • Dry bags: Absolutely essential. With the relentless rain on multiple days, keeping base layers and sleeping bags dry was a constant mission.
  • Good boots: Sturdy ankle support was critical over slick boulders and steep descents.
  • Down jackets & synthetic base layers: Kept the chill at bay post-hike.
  • Trekking poles: Especially useful during the 1700m descent via Organ Pipes Pass.
  • Headlamp & spare batteries: Non-negotiable.
  • Lightweight camp shoes—we needed a break from soggy boots
  • Mess tent tarp: Our portable refuge. The only place where wet souls could gather in peace.

What We Regretted Not Having:

 

More waterproof layers—everything was soaked by Day 4.

 

Better gloves—cold, wet hands are morale killers.

 

More hot chocolate!

Food on the Mountain: Fueling the Traverse

Meals were communal, hearty, and warm. Think pasta, stews, and always something hot (oats) in the morning.

 

Our guide cooked all of our meals, and there was never a moment we went hungry.

Snacks that kept us going:

 

  • Energy bars
  • Dried fruit
  • Laughing Cow
  • Electrolyte sachets (CR7) and Game
  • Chevra!

Eating at altitude and in cold conditions meant we needed more calories than expected, even though we lacked appetite.

 

We shared treats, celebrated small wins with chocolates, and clung to warm mugs like lifelines.

Tough Lessons from the Trail

  1. Weather Will Win
    You can plan every kilometer—but the mountain has the final say. We had to reroute, skip the Bell Traverse, and missed Roland’s Cave due to thick fog.
  2. Comfort is a Luxury
    Sleep wet. Walk wet. There’s no “cozy” out here—only resilience.
  3. Respect the Land and Its People
    Meeting Basotho shepherdsraised unexpected ethical questions—should we give food, or would it create unsustainable expectations? In the end, we held back but the moment still lingers.
  4. Guides Matter
    We cannot stress this enough: don’t hike this route without experienced guides.Navigation is hard, visibility changes fast, and the terrain is unforgiving.
  5. Shared Suffering Builds Bonds
    Our group came out stronger, tougher, and closer than ever. There’s a kind of friendship that only rain, sweat, altitude and shared laughter can forge.

Final Words: Would We Do It Again?

In a heartbeat—though we’d pack better gloves.

 

This wasn’t just a hike. It was a soul-deep experience. A physical and mental test. A chance to unplug completely, reconnect with nature, and come face-to-face with our limits.

 

If you’re planning your own Drakensberg Traverse, take it seriously. Respect the elements. Trust your guides. And give your porters the appreciation they deserve.

 

 

Missed Part 1? Click here.

 

Got questions or planning your own traverse? Drop them below—we’re happy to share everything we know.

 

Rof n Ombeskof

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