Greyton-McGregor Revisited
Two Towns
One dream, one soul
One prize, one goal
One golden glance of what should be
It’s a kind of magic
Greyton and McGregor, in the Western Cape of South Africa, separated by the Riviersonderend mountains, exude their own charms and scenic beauty.
Greyton, known for its well-preserved Cape Dutch architecture and blooming gardens, offers a serene retreat with its tree-lined streets and vibrant community where horses roam freely.
While McGregor boasts a more bohemian vibe, with its artistic flair showcased in local galleries and craft shops.
Greyton appeals to history buffs and nature lovers with its hiking trails and historic buildings, and McGregor attracts those seeking artistic inspiration and holistic wellness experiences.
Both towns, though distinct, have their own allure. But for hikers it’s the mountain that separates these towns that draws us back again and again and again.
This is a kind of magic
There can be only one
While the trail remains the same, every experience is unique and I was excited to share one of my favourite 2-day hikes with a group who have never done it before. For some this would be their first (and hopefully memorable) weekend hike.
One shaft of light that shows the way
No mortal man can win this day
It’s a kind of magic
The Boesmanskloof Hiking Trail
The Boesmanskloof Hiking Trail is a mountain trail that connects the towns of McGregor and Greyton. Stretching approximately 14 kilometres one way, this moderate-level hike winds through the Riviersonderend Mountains, offering vistas of lush valleys and rugged outcrops, folded mountains and gorges riven by millennia of flowing rivers.
The landscape includes indigenous fynbos and jutting rocks, while crossing the Boesmanskloof Pass, a highlight of the journey. The trail typically takes about 6 to 7 hours to complete from Greyton to McGregor yet is remarkably shorter to walk in reverse and looks completely different. It’s a kinda magic!
The bell that rings inside your mind
Is challenging the doors of time
It’s a kind of magic
Starting from Greyton, you ascend through the Greyton Nature Reserve, passing through stands of indigenous fynbos with vistas of the surrounding mountains. As the trail progresses, it enters the rugged Boesmanskloof Pass, a dramatic gorge carved by the Boesmans River.
Cast Of Crazies
Key Landmarks On The Route
The Boesmanskloof Pass: This rugged and scenic gorge is the centerpiece of the hike, offering stunning vistas of towering cliffs and cascading waterfalls.
The halfway point: Roughly midway through the trail, you reach a designated rest area where they can pause, refuel, swim and soak in the breathtaking scenery marked by a stunning rockpool and waterfall.
The McGregor side: As the trail nears its end in McGregor, you are treated to views of an abandoned quarry and the distant bark of wild baboons.
The trail was beautifully green compared to my last visit in December 2023, and mercifully cool.
At ‘Breakfast Rock’, about 4 kms into the trail after an endless uphill climb over a rocky ‘jeep track’ that is impassable to any motorised vehicles, it started to rain. Teasing drops that didn’t warrant raingear, which turned into a light drizzle, and became a proper downpour by the time we got to our lunch spot at the rockpool, which was approximately 4kms from base camp at Die Galq in McGregor.
The erosion from last spring’s floods remains. Deep dongas scour the trail, forcing us to hop skip and jump over and around them.
The waiting seems eternity
The day will dawn of sanity
Is this a kind of magic?
It’s a kind of magic
But the trail is as beautiful as ever. The protea bushes showed off multiple flowers in various stages of bloom. Despite the gloomy weather, the flora dazzled.
The landscape along the Boesmanskloof Hiking Trail is a testament to the diverse and enduring natural beauty of the Western Cape.
Flora:
- Indigenous Fynbos: The trail meanders through areas rich in fynbos, a unique vegetation type endemic to the Western Cape, including proteas, ericas, restios, and buchu.
- Mountain Flora: As the trail gains elevation, you may encounter species typical of montane environments, such as fragrant wildflowers, heathlands, and patches of indigenous forest in sheltered valleys.
- Riparian Vegetation: Along the banks of the Boesmans River, lush vegetation thrives, providing habitat for a variety of bird species and small mammals.
Fauna:
- Birdlife: The trail is a haven for sunbirds, sugarbirds, raptors, and waterfowl.
- Mammals: The rugged terrain of the Riviersonderend Mountains provides habitat for dassies (rock hyraxes), small antelope species, and the elusive Cape mountain leopard. And of course, baboons!
- Reptiles and Amphibians: The rocky outcrops and watercourses along the trail are home to lizards, snakes, and frogs. We never encountered any of these.
Geological Features:
- Boesmanskloof Pass: The highlight of the hike, this rugged gorge was carved over millennia by the Boesmans River, resulting in towering cliffs, deep pools, and cascading waterfalls.
- Rock Formations: Throughout the trail, impressive rock formations sculpted by erosion and geological forces, including sandstone cliffs, boulder fields, and weathered outcrops.
- Waterfalls and Pools: Seasonal streams and waterfalls dot the landscape, offering refreshing oases amidst the rugged terrain and providing habitat for aquatic plants and animals.
The Boesmanskloof Hiking Trail teems with natural wonders, from the delicate beauty of fynbos to the grandeur of towering mountains and cascading waterfalls.
Same Hike. Different Day
In the summer of 2023, although we had good weather, it was quite muggy and humid. This time, although rain clouds threatened, a cool breeze made the climbs bearable.
And when the rain inevitably came, it did not dampen the spirits! There were plenty of smiles despite sloshing boots and inevitably incompetent raingear.
And it was the spirit of this group that inspired me.
This flame that burns inside of me
I’m hearing secret harmonies
It’s a kind of magic
Despite the rain, despite their personal challenges, despite the dramatic, albeit challenging and seemingly endless rolling hills, some had to dig into depths they didn’t know they had to overcome the physical, mental, and emotional challenges of the trail, only to come out changed, in a fundamental way, when they reached their destination.
Reminded me of Andy Dufresne in Stephen King’s The Shawshank Redemption (which is my favourite film ever) who had to swim through a literal river of shit to come out clean on the other side. This was not literal shit, but a literal river, with the same metaphoric result. Ok. Maybe I should choose my metaphors better. But you know what I’m saying. The experience was life-altering. I hope.
As always, Die Galq remains home for me on this trail. The last bit, especially the steep climb to the quarry is murder, even for those of us who have done it before and may be slighter fitter. That last staircase is particularly torturous.
Its A Kind Of Magic
The waiting seems eternity
The day will dawn of sanity
Is this a kind of magic?
I am so proud of everyone who accepted the challenge of this magnificent trail, especially the first timers. You can pat yourself on the back for a fantastic achievement.
But a special shout-out to those who had NO IDEA what they were getting themselves into and did it anyway!
Its A Kind Of Magic – Lyrics by Queen (Gods of Rock n Roll!)
Photo creds:
For the amazing pics thanks go to:
Aneesa
Amaan
Shanaaz
Anni
Nadeema
Akbari
Zakia
Abdullah
Nicky
Shireen
Shereen
Special shout out to Butch for emergency dry undies (ya hadta be there!) and cold drinks at the finish. The supporters are the REAL heroes. We loves you Butch :*
