Kareedouw – Eastern Baviaans, Eastern Cape
(15-19 December 2024)
Antjie Se Pad Hike: A 5-Day Adventure in the Kouga Mountains
Antjie se Pad is a remarkable hiking trail located in the Kouga Mountains in the Suurveld (‘sour field’ because the land is not ideal for agriculture, so most farmers rear sheep) area of the Eastern Cape, South Africa. With its rich history, breathtaking landscapes, and rustic charm, the trail is an unforgettable experience for hikers seeking a moderately challenging adventure.
I almost didnt publish this post. Antjie se Pad is a hikers’ hike. It has all the elements of a great multi-day hike and I wanted to savour it like a secret to myself. But this trail is too beautiful not to share.
This is not a trail for casual, Instagrammers and/or bucket-listers. Antjie climbs (much like the route itself) into your soul, takes root (much like the fynbos) and never lets go.
500m into the trail on Day 1, I knew I would be back. By the end of Day 5, it was just a matter of how soon.
Trail Overview
Antjie se Pad offers two versions: a 5-day/4-night hike or a 3-day/2-night hike. If you opt for the 3-day version, you’ll only hike Day 1, Day 3, and Day 5 of the full route.
The hike is moderately challenging and you need to be hike fit to do this one, especially in the hot summer months when the humidity and heat can take a toll.
The Groupies
Witteklip Farm used to be the family home of the Du Plessis family who over the years have purchased the adjacent land. Today they own and/or have stewardship over 32 kms of land running adjacent to the Baviaanskloof, home of The Leopard Trail hiking trail.
The trail runs over 6 different farms viz.
- Witteklip 600 Ha (Raubeheimers)
- Booise Kraal 700 Ha (Moolmans)
- Trekkloof 1 (J H Du Plessis)
- 4. Trekkloof 2 1100 Ha (HK Du Plessis)
- Agterberg Graslaagte 800 Ha (J P Du Plessis)
- Rietfontein 1500 Ha (H M Rossouw)
They eponymous Antjie once worked for the Raubeheimers in the 1930s and 1940s when the landowers, bar the Du Plessis, did not live on the land but gave stewardship to their workers to care for the land and their livestock.
The remarkable Antjie would do a 10 km walk each morning and evening to do housework on Witteklip farm for the resident Du Toit family, before there was a jeep track, using only animal trails.
According to Swart Du Plessis’ memoir ‘ Die Suurveld, Van Toeka* Tot Nou’, Antjie would ‘stap laat die stof staan’, iow, so fast, you saw only her dust.
Naming this trail after her is a posthumous honour to a woman who worked the land and served as a domestic worker to the community.
The Du Plessis family currently farm sheep but most of the land has been dedicated to conserving the natural beauty, to the extent they ‘write off’ livestock losses from leopard attacks instead of killing the leopard.
Yes, there are leopards and wild baboons on the trail.
*’toeka’ – An Afrikaans word meaning ‘back in the day’.
Oom Herman is the creator and designer of the trail.
Here he is giving us his ‘Powerpoint’ presentation at the briefing.
I must recommend Oom Herman’s genius in designing this trail. A lot of thought went into planning a route that allows hikers to experience ALL this area has to offer, from the thoughtful rest stops with watertanks to the little marked exploration detours.
The trail is extremely well-marked.
Once we were on the trail, some of us thought we saw a mischievous glint in his eye but that could just be because we underestimated the challenge of this trail.
Just because the trail is a ‘voetpad’ does not mean its a walk in the park.
On the contrary, we found Antjie’s pad to be a challenge of hills upon hills not for the unfit or faint-hearted.
Oom Herman’s passion and love for this trail is palpable.
By the end of Day 4 we concluded Oom Herman is a genius with a wicked sense of humour!
The Trail
Day One: Onverwagte Heuwels - 16 kms
Oom Herman said this would be the toughest day. Although it was the longest, it was definitely not the toughest.
We were surprised by the endless rolling hills. It was also quite a hot and humid day, but we took longish breaks, even managing to nap at lunch time.
Highlights of day 1:
Day Two: 'Stuipe' (12 kms)
This ‘shorter; day allows for a more relaxed pace. Or so we thought! We left late at 9am after a very leisurely breakfast where copious amounts of coffee were consumed.
However, we underestimated the rollingness of the rolling hills.
On this day we did not pack lunch but opted to return to Waterval camp for lunch. Fortunately, we had good weather, and the clouds were a blessing.
On Day 2 we explored Blouberg kloof. There are some discrepencies in the information about the length of Day 2. Our Garmins recorded 12 kms, not 8 or 9.
Again we underestimated Antjie’s Pad but our respect for Antjie, the woman, grew.
Hightlights of Day 2
Day 3: Skinny Dip Day (11 kms)
Day 3 is another moderately distanced hike with captivating landscapes, showcasing the unique flora of the region.
This day has a beautiful surprise just before coming to Slagkamer Hut.
Slagkamer Hut is so named because it used to be where the farmers butchered livestock, so basically in English, ‘Slaughter Hut’.
There is no evidence of slaughtered animals anywhere close to the hut, but we did find white bones on our way belonging to some ill-fated deer.
On Day 3 we double back to the oasis we stopped at on Day 1 via another hilly route, but instead of walking towards Trekkloof, we turned right, coming down the hill, towards Slagkamer.
We said hello to the new group of hikers on their Day 1 who were enjoying the rest stop.
Before we got to the hut (around 1pm) we stopped at Skinny Dip dam.
According to Herman, its so named because when they built the dam, they convinced one of the young men that the only way to swim in it, was in your birthday suit.
It is a stunningly serene location, and we spent the good part of an hour enjoying the absolute peace and serenity at the dam.
Highlights of Day 3:
Day 4: Detour to Heaven
The day includes a main route of 11.5 km with an optional 9 km extension to the Kouga River View. The extended route is recommended for experienced hikers and rewards you with panoramic views.
I cannot recommend taking the detour highly enough.
The challenge for us started when we continued after the detour and the sun was baking down upon us after lunch. This part of the trail is exposed and there is a series of brutal climbs to the peak. Yes, another one!
This was by far my favourite day.
Highlights of Day 4:
Its impossible to adequately describe how beautiful the views are on this trail. The photographs do it scant justice.
One of the most thoughtful considerations by Herman throughout the trail is his ‘explore’ options.
On the trail you will find pink boards with a white protea. This means there is an area of interest you can explore close by.
On Day 2 and 3 this referred to swathes of protea bushes.
On Day 4 the explore sign refers to bushman paintings. I forgot about this and did not see the explore sign. Maybe the heat melted my brain.
I confess I just wanted to get out of the sun.
I did however notice a strategically placed water tank.
On our pre-hike briefing, Herman did advise us to carry 3 litres of water a day. This was very good advice, even on overcast days, the humidity was high and we drank a lot.
When you do this trail, please carry plenty of water. I did not fill up my bladder and ran out of water on the downhill. Luckily I passed the oasis from day 1 and was able to refill on the flat jeep track, before returning to Slagkamer hut.
One of the things I appreciated about the trail’s design is how Herman took us back to the water point on day 3 and on day 4. This was critical and testament to his genius.
Sometimes, however, when we climbed one hill, only to find another behind it, we couldn’t help wondering if Herman deliberately chose the toughest route.
Day 5: Secrets and Caves (11 kms)
Day 5 started like all the others… not… instead of heading up hill, we enjoyed a relatively easy walk, with some precarious (we were used to it by now) downs.
At 6kms we reached the Baviaans Pools. There was a detour board and we took it. It was only 9 am and we felt the end of hike vibes, wanting to make the last day last as long as possible.
We scrambled down an overgrown ravine and into a riverine forest where we found a cave-like overhang.
Rashaad brought out the space blanket and a long and leisurely picnic was had before we had to scramble back out and over the top of the waterfall to ‘Eerste Klim’, which was another example of Herman’s wicked sense of humour.
Because there were still many klims (climbs) to go.
Highlights of Day 5:
Facilities and Accommodation
Hikers will stay in two rustic huts: Waterval and Slagkamer. Both offer basic amenities:
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Slagkamer Hut: Flushing outside toilet with amazing views and a hot water shower.
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Waterval Hut: Flushing toilet and a hot water shower.
The huts are nestled in serene natural surroundings. Remember to bring torches or headlamps, as no lamps are provided, and avoid using candles due to fire risks.
Water Availability
Water tanks are available at the overnight sites for drinking, cooking, and washing.
Depending on the season and local rainfall, streams and springs along the trail may also provide water. It’s advisable to carry purification tablets or a filter if you’re not accustomed to untreated water.
Additionally, dams and pools along the route often provide refreshing swimming opportunities.
Oom Herman has provided water points along the route to refill your bladder but don’t rely on this in the dry season. Carry 3 litres of water per day.
Fires and Environmental Care
Fires are only allowed in designated fireplaces, and firewood is provided.
We were encouraged to collect dead wood from the environment around the huts.
This is a high-risk fire area, so ensure fires are completely extinguished before leaving them unattended.
Herman provided everything from an axe and saw to braai gloves and tongs at the huts. We felt very spoilt. This is not usual on a hutted trail. He took great care to make it as comfortable as possible and takes feedback from hikers to heart.
Sanparks and Cape Nature need to take a leaf from his book.
Safety Considerations
While Antjie se Pad is considered safe, it’s essential to be prepared for the inherent risks of wilderness hiking. Key safety points include:
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Emergency Communication: Cell phone reception is available on mountain tops but limited in valleys.
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Wildlife: The trail passes through areas inhabited by puff adders, Cape cobras, and occasionally leopards. Familiarize yourself with how to handle encounters or bites.
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Weather: Be prepared for sudden changes in weather, including thunderstorms and extreme heat.
In a South African context where we can no longer explore our natural spaces without fear of bodily harm and/or robbery, Antjie se Pad is a breath of fresh air, literally, and figuratively.
The trail is isolated from modern life after 1km on day one. We saw not a vehicle nor a plane or another human being (except for the other group on our Day 3, their Day 1).
I highly recommend this trail for a group of women.
Oom Herman said leopards roam the area but these creatures are notoriously shy and avoid humans (I’m part leopard maybe?). We heard baboons on Day 3 close to the hut and saw their droppings, but no sightings. The baboons are wild and we encourage all hikers everywhere not to leave food scraps lying around, nor to feed the baboons. Even when we left our food at the huts, and overnight, they remained unmolested.
Another feature of the trail was the absence of litter. And this is why I hesitated to publicise this hike. I fear the bucketlisters with their drones and influencer vibes will come and pollute this pristine part of the world by introducing it to their ‘followers’ and the rest of us will have to come back to clean up their literal mess.
However, Oom Herman is so deeply in love with the land, he has vowed that this trail will not become another over-commercialised Leopard Trail.
Exploring Antjie se Pad
Optional Adventures
The trail offers additional exploration opportunities, such as:
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Blouberg Kloof (Day 2): A 6 km detour into a secluded valley.
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Agterberg 360° View (Day 4): A short 600 m hike to a panoramic viewpoint.
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Kouga River View (Day 4): A 9 km extended route for experienced hikers.
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Baviaans River Pools and Waterfall (Day 5): A 2 km side trip to a tranquil natural setting.
Unique Flora
Antjie se Pad traverses the farm Witteklip, known for its diverse plant life. Key highlights include:
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Honeybush Tea Plants: Found on the southern slopes of the mountains.
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Baviaanskloof Cedar: A “Near Threatened” species endemic to the area, thriving in rocky ravines and steep cliffs.
Conservation Efforts
Efforts are ongoing to protect the Baviaanskloof Cedar from threats like runaway fires and habitat destruction. The trail’s design minimizes environmental impact, and hikers are encouraged to follow Leave No Trace principles.
The Kouga Mountains and Eastern Baviaans Connection
Antjie se Pad serves as a gateway to exploring the broader region, including the Kouga Mountains and the Eastern Baviaans. These areas offer additional opportunities for adventurers:
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Kouga Mountains: Known for its rugged terrain, the Kouga Mountain trails feature expansive views and historical routes once used by early settlers. The region’s unique geology supports endemic plant species and provides a dramatic backdrop for hikers.
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Eastern Baviaans: A lesser-trodden area within the Baviaanskloof, this region is rich in biodiversity, with rare bird species, baboons, and antelope frequently spotted along trails. It’s an ideal destination for those seeking solitude and pristine nature.
Both areas enhance the appeal of Antjie se Pad by offering an extended wilderness experience and a deeper connection to South Africa’s rich ecological and cultural tapestry.
When to Hike
Antjie se Pad is accessible year-round, with each season offering unique experiences:
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Summer (Dec-Feb): Hot days averaging 28°C, ideal for early morning and late afternoon hikes.
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Autumn/Spring (Mar-May, Sep-Nov): Mild temperatures averaging in the early 20s.
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Winter (Jun-Aug): Cool days averaging 16°C, with chilly nights dropping to 0°C. Rain is possible but infrequent.
Fitness and Age Recommendations
This moderately difficult hike is suited for individuals with good hiking fitness. The recommended age range is 12 to 65 years, though exceptions can be made for those outside this range who are confident in their abilities.
Base Camp Accommodation
For those traveling from afar or seeking a relaxed start and end to their hike, a house is available for rent at Base Camp (Witteklip) accommodating up to 12 people.
I highly recommend his option.
Packing Essentials
Gear:
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Water bottle and purification tablets/filters
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Headlamp or flashlight
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First aid kit
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Hiking boots
Clothing:
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Rain jacket
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Warm clothing for winter nights
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Hat and sunscreen
Accessories:
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Garbage bags
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Toilet paper
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Cooking utensils
Historical and Cultural Significance
Antjie se Pad is named after Antjie Stuurman, a remarkable figure in the region’s history. Antjie was a labourer on the Witteklip farm who, despite facing immense hardships, became a symbol of resilience and dedication. Walking this route daily to and from work, Antjie’s footsteps became the inspiration for the trail.
The Life of Antjie Stuurman
Born in the early 20th century, Antjie Stuurman lived through the trials of apartheid-era South Africa. Despite the systemic oppression and physical challenges of her labour, she became a beloved figure in her community.
Known for her unwavering spirit, Antjie navigated the rugged terrains of the Kouga Mountains every day to earn a livelihood. Her determination and grace left an indelible mark on the people who knew her, and her story has been passed down through generations.
According to Swart’s memoir, one of Antjie’s children still lives in Kareedouw, the closest town to Witteklip.
Locals recall tales of Antjie’s strength, kindness, and deep connection to the land. The trail named in her honour serves as a tribute to her enduring legacy. Walking Antjie se Pad is not just a physical journey but a symbolic retracing of her steps—a celebration of her life and resilience.
A portion of the income generated from the hiking trail goes towards Living Water Ministry, an NPO dedicated to uplifting underprivileged kids in the community, also under Oom Herman’s stewardship. Like many farmers in this country, the Du Plessis and others in the Suurveld, do more for local children that the (ir-)relevant education departments.
We were happy to pass on a donation of children’s toys (including LEGOS for Africa) from one of AAC’s runners. Thank You Ann-Marie!
Final Thoughts
Antjie se Pad is more than a hike; it’s an immersive experience into the natural and cultural heritage of the Kouga Mountains. With its stunning landscapes, unique flora, and well-maintained facilities, the trail promises an adventure that is both challenging and rewarding.
The Kouga Mountains and Eastern Baviaans fynbos add a unique dimension to this wilderness journey, making it a must-visit destination for nature enthusiasts.
Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or simply looking to reconnect with the outdoors, Antjie se Pad offers a chance to create unforgettable memories while honoring the legacy of an extraordinary woman.
Thank You
To Antjie for living such an extraordinary life, in such challenging times that your legacy lives on to this day.
To Oom Herman for designing this hiking trail and for the little touches that make it feel like home.
The Du Plessis family and the extended Suurberg farmers for having the foresight and vision to protect this part of our natural heritage.
To my companions who took a chance on a little-known hiking trail and discovered an amazing hidden gem. I love your pioneering spirit. Here’s to the next little-known trail!
Photographs courtesy of:
Herman Stoffberg
Suad Abrahams
Rashaad Salie
Ellen McNamara
Sources:
‘Die Suurveld, Toeka tot nou’ by Swart du Plessis
Brilliant read and write. A 🌟 of a hike.
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