12 March 2023
The Devil Soon Finds Work For Idle Hikers
Devils Peak Mountain is one of the most famous peaks in Cape Town and is part of the Table Mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Standing at 1,000 meters tall, it towers over the city and is one of my earliest childhood memories, imposing it’s full face on me whenever I stepped out of my house in Salt River.
With trails leading to the summit offering stunning views of the city and the surrounding landscape, Devils Peak provides a series of interesting and exciting options for hikers, mountain bikers and nature-lovers.
One of my personal favourite trails is the hike up to the peak where you have 3 beacons from which to view the magnificence that is the city of Cape Town.
How The Devil Got Its Name
One of the most interesting things about Devils Peak Mountain is the legend behind its name.
As the story goes, a Dutch ship was sailing towards Cape Town in the 17th century, carrying a cargo of wine and brandy intended for the governor of the Cape.
However, when the ship arrived, the governor refused to pay for the cargo, claiming it was of poor quality. Outraged, the captain of the ship cursed the governor and his city, calling on the devil to make the mountain above the city his throne.
That night, a fierce storm descended on the city, and a bolt of lightning struck the peak of the mountain, leaving a jagged scar that can still be seen today.
The locals believed this was a sign that the devil had indeed taken up residence on the mountain, and the peak became known as “Devils Peak.”
Is The Devil Still On The Peak?
According to legend, Van Hunks, a Dutchman who lived in the 1700s and was known for his love of smoking tobacco is responsible for the cloud over Table Mountain.
One day, while smoking on Table Mountain, Van Hunks encountered a mysterious stranger who challenged him to a smoking contest. The stranger turned out to be the Devil, and the two smoked against each other until the smoke created a dense cloud around them.
As the legend goes, the smoking contest lasted for days, and Van Hunks eventually emerged victorious. The Devil, angry and defeated, disappeared in a burst of smoke and was never seen again.
While this tale is just a legend, it has become a popular story in Cape Town and has been passed down through generations.
Some believe that the cloud of smoke that was created during the smoking contest can still be seen on Table Mountain today.
If you’re ever in Cape Town, be sure to check out Table Mountain and see if you can spot the lingering smoke from Van Hunks’ legendary smoking contest with the Devil!
And that’s how we got rid of the Devil on Devils Peak, making it safe for hikers.
Thank you, Mr Van Hunks.
#makingupurbanlegendsaswego
Devils Peak: The Mountain
Devils Peak Mountain is made up of a variety of different rock types, including sandstone, shale, and granite.
If you look at the peak next to it’s more famous counterpart, Table Mountain, the green blanket of fynbos distinguishes it from the blue tinge that is her sister mountain.
Devils Peak is home to a variety of plant and animal species, including the endangered Cape Sugarbird, which can be seen flitting amongst the fynbos and protea plants that cover the slopes.
The mountain also features several interesting geological features, including the distinctive “saddle” that separates the peak from its neighbour, Table Mountain.
This saddle is a popular spot to catch your breath on your way to the peak, offering stunning views of both mountains and the city below. On gale force windy days in Cape Town, it is almost impossible to venture safely beyond this point.
An Embarassment Of Riches
In terms of trail options, Devils Peak has something for all fitness levels.
There are several trails that lead to the summit of Devils Peak Mountain, each offering a different experience and level of difficulty.
The most popular trail is the Devils Peak Hike, which takes you up to the summit via the saddle between Devils Peak and Table Mountain.
This trail is relatively easy to navigate, with well-marked paths and stunning views of the city, Table Bay, and the Atlantic Ocean.
Another popular trail is the Woodstock Cave Hike, which takes you up to the Woodstock Cave, a natural cave system located on the slopes of the Devil’s Peak series of trails, located in Cape Town, South Africa. The trail is a moderate to strenuous hike, depending on your fitness level, and takes approximately 2-3 hours to complete.
The trailhead is located on Tafelberg Road, near the King’s Blockhouse, above Rhodes Memorial and follows a well-marked ascent up Devil’s Peak.
If you’re planning on hiking Devils Peak Mountain, it’s important to be prepared. Make sure to bring plenty of water and snacks, wear appropriate hiking gear, and be aware of your surroundings.
While the trails are generally safe, there have been reports of muggings in the past, so it’s best to hike in groups and avoid carrying valuables.
On Sunday 12 March 2023, we chose to on of my favourite trails, viz Devil’s Peak via The Saddle.
Start
We started at the Devils Peak Trailhead on Tafelberg Road.
Just past the popular Platteklip Gorge trailhead is another trail, about 500m along, where you can start the hike up Devils Peak. There is a board. You can’t miss it.
The trail starts up a well-marked, well-navigated series of stone steps. Some parts of it are under rehabilitation, blanketed on both sides by our famous fynbos.
The walk is generally easy, although its ‘hill up’ as Mambi would say and will get your legs nice and warm, and the heart-rate up to where you need to remove your jacket before too long.
The weather was beautifully warm with clear skies and no wind. A big change from last week’s cold and misty sojourn up Chapman’s Peak.
On this hike, more than any, the wind will determine how far you can go.
If it’s gale force, it is better to do Oppelskop or Woodstock Caves.
We were lucky the wind took the day off. Also, it was the Cape Cycle Tour, which has been notoriously cancelled before due to wind, so I’m sure the cyclists were as relieved as we were.
In fact, the loudspeakers at the cycling event were so loud, we could hear the announcers voices while we made our way up the mountain.
The switchbacks level out and the trail flattens after a nice long climb.
Because of the rainy week (which only let up the day before) the streams were gurgling like cherubs.
The water in the streams is delicious. I can’t resist drinking from them. Ice-cold mountain water. The best thirst-quencher on the planet.
At this point the trail will split.
You can go right towards Newlands Ravine, left towards Oppelskop (another lesser peak) or straight ahead, up an imposingly steep climb, towards The Saddle.
Our group split up at this point, with some choosing to go left towards Oppelskop. We soldiered on, up the steepish climb. Now is when the hike becomes a bit of a challenge.
The quads start to burn and the calves start to write letters to management. But it really is worth the pain. I promise.
If you look back you will see Table Mountain, and the outline of Platteklip Gorge with her many torturous (I kid!) switchbacks, as well as the best view of Lions Head.
The latter will stay on your left shoulder, while Table Mountain will be at your back.
The Saddle
After some steep hill ups, we stopped to regroup at The Saddle.
The views of Cape Town and Table Bay harbour are magnificent. We could see Robben Island clearly in the distance.
To the left it looks as if there may be a trail. From Oppelskop you will be able to see this face of the mountain, but I am not sure if you can descend to Oppelskop from the saddle.
It looks a bit dicey to hike and I don’t personally know anyone who has done it.
I would not recommend it at all.
We went right, following a clear path to the summit. On rainy days this could be slippery.
The path is mostly sand with a few rocks along the way to hold onto. It could be slippery, especially on the way down after the rain. In gale force winds, it would be possible, but less fun.
That First Beacon
You think when you see the first beacon, that you have reached the pinnacle of the hike, but you would be (happily) wrong. The view is amazing, but it’s an appetizer for what’s to come.
Behind you, to the right is an imposing rock where you can just see the tip of another beacon. Follow the trail. Keep right. You will scramble over the rocks. It’s an easy scramble.
And there you will find your reward. For me, this is the best view of Cape Town.
It’s 360 degrees of the Peninsula. Besides the Atlantic Ocean and the city, you can see as far as Tableview and beyond on the westcoast.
The entire Cape Flats is laid out before you and you will be able to pick out landmarks like The Rondebosch Common, Newlands Cricket ground and the ugly stadium in Greenpoint.
To the south you can see Muizenberg Peak and even further south, Cape Point and my other new favourite hike, Swartkop via Smitswinkelbaai.
The Summit
There were a few people who hadn’t done the trail before and its always wonderful to witness their awe at the views.
Nazia and Badr were particularly struck and watching them experience the trail for the first time, made me appreciate it so much more.
Breakfast Rock
We had a veritable feast on the top of the mountain.
Blommie was back, which meant muffins were on the menu!
Kamini kindly left us a stash of chili bites, even though she took the other route and between Princess Rifi and Bashe, I didn’t get a chance to get to my own snacks.
It was a meal fit for the Devil himself!
Magies vol, ogies toe.
But we still had to descend. The hike up was 3km according to my Garmin and we hiked at a good pace, summiting in 1h45m, even with a long break before the group split and several stops to regroup.
The trek down was even quicker, just over an hour. We rarely regroup on the way down. By 10am we were having coffee with Mambi.
Blommie had a date with a boat, and I had a date with a bush.
It was perfect weather for this hike and we got to the bottom, just as the sun was waking up. Luckily, we did the hard bits in the shade.
I would advise anyone to do this hike early in the morning, to avoid having the sun on your back once you start to climb. It is just more pleasant.
I love this hike. It’s one of my favourites. I thank the Devil for the perfect weather and the perfectly clear skies so we could appreciate the view.
Tips For Hiking
1. Plan ahead: Research the trail, check the weather forecast, and make sure you have all the necessary gear and supplies.
2. Dress appropriately: Wear comfortable and weather-appropriate clothing and footwear, and dress in layers if necessary.
3. Stay hydrated: Bring plenty of water and drink frequently to avoid dehydration.
4. Fuel up: Bring snacks or a packed lunch to keep your energy levels up throughout the hike.
5. Bring a map and compass: Don’t rely solely on your phone’s GPS or map apps. Bring a physical map and compass as a backup.
6. Let someone know your plans: Tell a friend or family member where you’re going and when you plan to return.
7. Stay on the trail: Stick to designated trails and don’t take shortcuts or bushwhack. This helps protect the environment and avoid getting lost.
8. Leave no trace: Pack up all your rubbish and leave the trail as you found it. This helps preserve the natural beauty of the area.
9. Know your limits: Don’t push yourself beyond your fitness level or abilities. Take breaks as needed and turn back if necessary.
10. Be aware of wildlife: Keep a safe distance from any animals you may encounter and don’t disturb their natural habitats.
11. NEVER hike alone. Hike in groups of 4 or more.
Special Thanks for their photographic contributions:
Saeed
Rifqah
Wasielah
Momeena
Badr
Nazia
Meenakshi
Awesome thanks to Badr for the video! You guys rawk