Reverse Sphinx Rainbow Route
Elgin/Grabouw: A Trail Through Nature
When people think of the Elgin/Grabouw region, their minds often go to the sprawling orchards that supply South Africa with its apples and pears, or the wineries that dot the landscape, producing some of the Cape’s finest vintages.
But beyond the rows of fruit trees and vineyards lies a world of untamed beauty. It’s a place where nature’s power and resilience are on full display—rocky mountains rising from the valleys, covered in hardy fynbos, a unique and diverse ecosystem that has evolved to thrive in these often harsh conditions.
Located just an hour from Cape Town, the region forms part of the broader Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve. The biodiversity here is staggering, particularly when it comes to the flora. The fynbos, a blanket of tough shrubs, proteas, and ericas, is one of the most unique plant systems in the world.
And while the farming and wine industries are a significant part of the local economy, the mountains and trails that crisscross the region offer opportunities for hikers to explore some of the country’s most stunning natural scenery.
It was this balance of cultivated land and wild terrain that brought our group of 26 hikers to the Hottentots-Holland Nature Reserve on a weekend that promised clear skies but quickly did an about turn.
We weren’t here to pick apples or sip wine (Mambi did enough of that on Friday night for everyone); we were here to take on the Sphinx Trail, an easy, beginner-friendly 2-day hike that forms part of the larger Nuweberg circuit in the Hottentots Holland mountains.
For many of us, it was a chance to reconnect with nature after long weeks spent in the city. For others, it was an opportunity to challenge ourselves and experience the landscape on foot, without the distractions of modern life.
As we gathered at the trailhead, the skies were sunny with a treacherous rainbow forecasting rain. But it made for an epic ‘before’ group shot.
But that did little to dampen our spirits. Especially with scones, muffins and hot coffee to warm us.
We had come prepared for whatever nature had in store, and with a group this large, there was an unspoken understanding that we would rely on each other to get through whatever challenges might arise.
One of the joys of hiking in a group like this—whether you’re an experienced hiker or a novice, the camaraderie and shared experience can make even the toughest conditions enjoyable.
Day 1: Reverse Route
The first day of our hike started off with anticipation.
The air was cool (it’s winter, duh!) but there was no sign of rain yet. We began our ascent, moving through the fynbos with the crunch of gravel beneath our boots. The trail was well-worn but not too challenging.
At the reception, when we signed in, the ranger on duty advised us to take an alternate route. Since last spring’s rains (we have had unseasonable rains since September 2023) the trails had been washed away and some were still closed for maintenance.
After some debate and asking of advice from a local, our hike leader, Bow ‘Bapoo’ Wow, led the way.
We ended up taking the (shorter) jeep track to the huts. Usually, we would do this route on Day 2. But these things are not written in stone.
An hour into the hike, we felt the first few drops of rain. It wasn’t much—just a light drizzle—but it was enough to make us happy we were on the jeep track.
We should have taken the more scenic path, winding through the valley. But with the threat of rain on the horizon, the decision to take the jeep track proved wiser.
The Jeep track, a wide dirt road that wound its way steadily up the mountain, offered a more straightforward route to our destination—the Shamrock and Landroskop huts, where we would spend the night. The incline was mostly gentle, and we made good progress.
And there is always time to mug for the camera!
The rain held off until we got to the huts.
It was a huge relief to be inside, warm and dry, just as the rain began to pour. There’s a certain satisfaction in knowing that you’ve beaten the elements.
The huts were simple but comfortable, offering enough space for our group to spread out and relax.
Lunch was a communal affair.
One of the beautiful things about hikes like this is teamwork. It isn’t just about helping each other on the trail; it’s about sharing in the whole experience, from cooking meals to swapping stories and laughter as the rain came down and the wind whipped the fynbos outside.
The rain did not let up. But the gees made up for the weather, especially once the fires got going. Trust Bashe to show the boys how to get the fire started. Her secret? Duah!
The storm outside only added to the coziness inside the huts, and the mood was light. We drifted off to sleep, trying to out-snore each other – and excited for Day 2.
Day 2: Clear Skies and Stunning Vistas
We awoke the next morning to a world transformed. It was wetter than the day before and did not look like it would let up.
A hiker always packs rain gear so we were ready, fortified by coconut-less doughnuts and Aunty Neesha’s sublime ‘fensy’ pistachio oats.
As we started the morning, the rain let up, the sun peaked through the clouds, casting a soft glow over the landscape.
Clear skies and crisp, fresh air beckoned us into the mountain as if the previous day’s weather had never happened.
This time, we followed the original route, which would take us past some of the most beautiful vistas in the region.
The descent was easy, with the path gently sloping downward as we made our way toward the Theewaterskloof Dam.
Along the way, we passed through stretches of fynbos that seemed to have come alive after the rain, their colours vibrant and their leaves glistening with droplets of water.
As we walked, the landscape opened before us.
The views over the dam, with the water reflecting the blue of the sky and the surrounding mountains standing tall in the distance, were fantasmagories.
We paused frequently to take in the scenery, snapping photos and simply enjoying the beauty of the moment.
It was one of those perfect hiking days, where the weather, the company, and the landscape all come together to create an unforgettable experience.
As we descended further, the impact of last year’s floods became apparent. Sections of the trail had been washed away, leaving behind deep ruts and uneven ground.
In some places, we had to navigate around large debris that had been carried down the mountain by the floodwaters. It was a stark reminder of nature’s power, and of the challenges that come with maintaining trails in such a dynamic environment.
Despite the damage, the trail remained passable, and our group worked together to ensure everyone made it through safely.
It was another testament to the importance of teamwork —whether it was helping someone across a particularly tricky section of the trail or simply offering encouragement.
As we neared the end of the trail, the sun climbed higher in the sky, and the heat began to build.
We took our time on the final stretch, savouring the last few moments of the hike before reaching the trailhead.
The sense of accomplishment was palpable—despite the weather, we had completed the hike together, and everyone was in high spirits as we prepared to head home.
But not before lunch and some ginger beer!
Reflections
Reflecting on the hike, it’s easy to see why the Elgin/Grabouw region is such a popular destination.
The combination of rugged mountains, diverse plant life, and the ever-present possibility of unpredictable weather makes for an experience that is as rewarding as it is challenging.
But beyond the natural beauty, what made this hike special was the sense of camaraderie.
In a group as large as ours, with hikers of all ages and experience levels, there’s always the potential for things to go awry.
But from the very beginning, there was a sense of shared responsibility—whether it was sharing food, offering a helping hand, or simply keeping the mood light when the rain threatened to dampen our spirits.
Hiking, after all, isn’t just about reaching the summit or ticking off a trail on your bucket list. It’s about the journey itself, the people you meet along the way, and the memories you create together.
We’re already planning our next adventure.
There are still so many trails to explore, so many views to take in, and so many more shared meals and stories waiting just over the next ridge.
I hope our hiking family continues to thrive, united by our love of the trails and our commitment to taking on whatever challenges nature throws our way—together.
Photo and video credits:
Saeed ‘Blommie’ Fakier
Farzana ‘Chai Wallah’ Bhayat
Bapoo ‘Bow Wow’ Osman
Wasielah ‘Booking’ Adams
Shireen ‘Her Serenity’ Gaffoor
Anni ‘Squishy Boots’ Drapala
Ellen ‘Mar-Might’ McNamara
Rifqah ‘Series-Watcher’ Toyer
Ebi ‘Red Socks’ Hartley
Hillary ‘Begroshen’ Osborne
Sharifa ‘Cat-In-The-Hat’ Nordien-Ismail
To everyone: I thank you for stabbing out, for sitting hand-by, for the laughs, the gees, the fire, but most importantly, the geseligheid!
To Baby Zahra who is not such a baby anymore… welcome back! We missed you.
To those who couldnt make it… there will be another one.
To the first timers… I hope the snoring didn’t put you off too much. You get used to it! Earplugs are your friend. Keep hiking and I will see you on the next one.
Aslm Wow. Stunning Blog. Love this.
Alhamdullilah! You’re on this one and the next one … and the next In Sha Allah!!!
Thanks Gabiba. I always look forward to reading your blogs after each hike. Love the way you manage to observe all our little quirks – definitely an enjoyable read and hike.
Ameen