Trail dates: 7–10 October
Base: Wateryk Eco Lodge, Jongensfontein
Style: Self-catered luxury slackpack
A Trail Between Time and Tide
Some hikes fill your legs; others fill your soul. The Alikreukel Hiking Trail, tracing the ancient coastline between Blombos, Jongensfontein, and Stilbaai on South Africa’s southern coast, does both.
We began our walk on Tuesday, 7 October, under a sky so blue it almost looked artificial. Over four days we followed the curve of the continent—past fossil caves, limestone cliffs, wild beaches and whispering dunes—while returning each evening to the calm luxury of our base at Waterryk Guest Farm.
This was slackpacking in its purest form: the freedom of walking light, the indulgence of returning “home” to hot showers, soft beds, and sundowners overlooking the ocean. We cooked for ourselves, carried only daypacks, and let the rhythm of sea and sky set the pace.
The Alikreukel Trail is marketed as a guided, fully catered slackpack. But for those who prefer independence and the privacy of their own accommodation, it also lends itself beautifully to a self-catered luxury version—and that’s exactly what we did.
Where Land Meets Deep Time
The trail lies in the Hessequa region of the Western Cape, between Jongensfontein and Stilbaai, a landscape shaped by wind, water, and human history stretching back over 70 000 years.
Here, early Homo Sapiens left ochre engravings in the Blombos Cave long before the pyramids were built. Waves still lap over the Khoikhoi fish traps, stone walls built more than 2 000 years ago. Ancient dunes have solidified into soft sandstone cliffs.
And yet, despite all that history, the place feels untouched—wild and elemental, where nature still sets the rules.
Why We Chose a Self-Catered Luxury Slackpack
There are two ways to experience the Alikreukel Trail:
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The standard guided, catered version, where meals, accommodation, and logistics are arranged for you.
2. The self-catered version, where you book your own lodging and self-cater.
We opted for the latter because it gave us flexibility and privacy.
Staying at Waterryk Guest Farm turned out to be perfect—modern architecture, panoramic river views, fireplaces for chilly evenings, and eco-friendly facilities that blended seamlessly into the landscape.
Every afternoon, we’d return to a spacious deck, drop our dusty shoes, pour a glass of something cold or make a cup of tea, and watch the light change across the river while dinner sizzled on the stove.
It was our version of trail luxury: wildness by day, comfort by night.
Trail Overview
| Trail name | Alikreukel Coastal Hiking Trail |
|---|
| Region | Southern Cape, between Blombos and Stilbaai |
| Distance | ±46 km walking + 4 km paddling |
| Duration | 4 days (plus arrival/departure) |
| Difficulty | Moderate (some sandy and rocky stretches) |
| Best months | Sept–Nov and Mar–May |
| Accommodation (our version) | Wateryk Eco Lodge, Jongensfontein |
| Catering | Self-catered |
| Carrying | Daypack only |
| Highlights | Blombos Cave, ancient fish traps, Goukou River kayak, dunes, fynbos |
The Before People
Our Guides
Derek Odendal – Founder of the Alikreukel Trail is an accredited tourist guide.
Derek is not only a qualified mountain walking guide and registered tourist guide, but he also has extensive knowledge of the heritage sites and historical landmarks in the region.
Dr Jan de Vynck left us in awe of his knowledge of the prehistory of the area, but also taught us about foraging. I confess I may not have met a more intelligent man in my live. Ever.
Dr. Jan de Vynck, a paleo-ecologist and naturalist, leads fascinating short walks through the area, sharing his deep knowledge of the local history and edible plants. With a keen understanding of how our ancestors survived and lived in this region, Dr. de Vynck brings the past to life as he guides you through the landscape.
Johan Huisaman hails from Mossel Bay and is an MTech and ecologist from Cape Nature. His research includes studies on the diets of the Cape Fur Seal.
Day-by-Day Trail Experience
Day 1 – Blomboschfontein to Jongensfontein (≈14 km)
Theme: Stepping into Deep Time
Our first morning began with a short transfer to the Blombos Cave area, where archaeologists unearthed the world’s oldest known art. Standing near that site, looking out at the same ocean that once sustained early humans, felt humbling.
From there, the trail hugged the rugged coastline—sometimes on hard beach sand, sometimes weaving through rocky shelves. Oyster-catchers darted between tide pools; sea spray carried the scent of salt and kelp.
We passed fossil dunes and stone middens—piles of discarded shells left by prehistoric gatherers. It’s from the large, spiral alikreukel (shell) that the trail takes its name.
Highlights
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The contrast between pale cliffs and turquoise water.
- The Blombos Rock Arch
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Lunch on a flat rock warmed by sun, waves breaking meters away.
- Recovery Naps!
Trail notes
The sand here is soft, and progress slow. By mid-afternoon we were sun-tired and salt-coated, ready to head “home.” The moment we reached Waterryk and saw its glass façade gleaming in late-day light, we knew our choice of base was perfect.
That evening we feasted on Karima’s dhal gorsht, and watched the horizon burn orange before fading to indigo.
Slackpacking luxury, in our own style.
Day 2 – Jongensfontein to Stilbaai (≈12 km)
Theme: Fish Traps, and Forgotten Shores
We started early, following the shoreline eastward. The first few kilometres traced rocky ledges and small coves, then opened into long sweeps of sand.
Around mid-morning we spotted a familiar face… South African ultra-trail legend, Ryan Sandes himself!
If you’ve been following this blog, you will know we recently completed our own version of his 13 Peaks Challenge.
For our version, go here.
Of course we were star struck and had to take a pic!
Not far beyond, at Noordkapper Point, the coastline dips into bays where southern right whales often shelter with calves. Sadly we saw none.
From there, the land begins to whisper its cultural stories: the Khoikhoi fish traps—stone corrals still visible at low tide. Seeing them reminded us that human life has always revolved around these tidal rhythms.
The highlight for many of us was coming upon a magnificent Milkwood forest just over a hill when coming up from the beach. Here is where we stopped to have an early lunch.
Highlights
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Whale/dolphin vantage points are magical (even though we saw none).
- We did however, spot one Ryan Sandes
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Fish traps: seeing stone walls jutting into the sea, built long ago, still visible at low tide, is humbling. It bridges natural history and human history.
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Forest patches: cool, shady, fragrant. The milkwood trees offering respite.
Trail Notes
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The route has lots of undulations. Not steep hills so much as constant variation.
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The terrain alternates between sandy beach walking, firm sand, rock, dunes.
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The transition to ‘normal’ trail once we reached the Milkwood forest was a relief.
Day 3 – Goukou River & Olive Farm (Walk + Kayak, ≈9 km)
Theme: Still Waters and Slow Living
On Day 3 we met Dr Jan De Vynck, a man of many talents. He took us for a stroll along the Goukou River and educated us on the foraging opportunities in the area, from wild asparagus to something that tasted vaguely sherbety. It was truly fascinating.
Foraging
We also visited the oldest holiday home in the area and the Stilbaai Museum where Sanet, museum director, fascinated us with tales of the paleontology of the area. Who knew shells and rocks could be so fascinating.
Holiday houses, eels & museums
Mouth of the Goukou River - named for a Xhosa Chief who once ruled over this domain
Paddling
Easily the best part of the day!
Kransfontein Olive Estate
At Kransfontein Olive Estate we were treated to a delicious delicious lunch and entertained by Butch’s piano skills, before enjoying a leisurely walk through the magnificent gardens on the estate.
Clivias clivias everywhere, while we picked mulberries, reliving our childhoods and foraged for pecan nuts on the ground.
The reknowned author, Wilbur Smith once owned part of the estate and Derek pointed out the cottage where he would write his books while his wife planted pecan trees. We are glad she did. They tasted delicious.
Afterwards we splurged on olive oil and cha cha chili sauce.
What a day!
Day 4 – Geelkrans and Rooikrans (≈12–15 km)
Theme: The Sands of Time
Our final day explored the Geelkrans Nature Reserve, just east of Stilbaai. The trail undulates through coastal fynbos before dropping onto wide beaches where wind has sculpted sandstone into fantastical shapes.
The semi-petrified dunes here are spectacular—layers of sand compressed into stone, their ripples frozen in time.
Jan explained how fossilised footprints in the sand captured a moment in time 100s of 1000s of years ago. It was both humbling and exhilirating when he showed us the holes in the petrified dunes made by moles aeons ago.
We were awed by footprints of humans and animals forever immortalised by the sand.
We walked quietly, each step sinking slightly into soft sand, the sea whispering beside us. Occasional shell middens hinted at the presence of ancient coastal dwellers.
Then Jan stopped at a particular spot, noticing something that hadnt been there 2 weeks before when he last did this part of the hike.
As is wont, with the erosion of the waves slamming against the petrified dunes, some of the dune had collapsed. We went to get a closer look, and that’s when we saw it.
More prints! We of course had no idea what we had stumbled upon but Jan was quietly excited, and when he took out a scale measurement and asked us to take pics with our phones, we finally realised we may have found something very cool
Jan would send the pics to his PhD student in Canada, Charles, who… happens to be a former classmate of our own Butch!
Talk about serendipity.
As of Wednesday 22 October 2025, this is what Charles had to say via text:
Hi Butch
Just to let you know that Jan did a great job with the photogrammetry so we now have a good digital record of the site, even if the tides destroy it. Once we get the dating results we will be publishing on this site. Unbelievable that you part of the discovery.
Charles
We did not imagine we would be strolling on the beach on this hike, with one of the brightest minds in the country, only to find a proper archeological or anthropological discovery!
What a blessing!
We had planned to shorten this day anyway, so we could attend Jumuah prayers later, but once we discovered the new prints, we turned back. Nothing could top this.
On our way back to the car we took a moment to reflect on our discovery (yes, we are claiming it) and play on the Preekstoel as the tide receded.
What a day!
Embrace the sands of connection, for they hold the essence of our shared humanity.
Jasper Wright
Watching waves hammer the base of the rock, it was hard not to feel both small and privileged—to walk in a place so unspoiled.
Later, as we drove back to Jongensfontein for our last night, the sea mist lifted and the sun peaked out.
The hike had ended, but the rhythm of the ocean carried on.
Waterryk Eco Lodge: Our Coastal Sanctuary
Wateryk wasn’t just accommodation—it was part of the experience.
Designed around sustainability, its solar panels, natural materials, and rainwater harvesting all fit the spirit of the trail.
Inside, everything felt curated yet comfortable: crisp linen, generous bathrooms, open-plan kitchen, panoramic windows framing sea and sky. Afternoons on the deck as we unwound all became rituals.
Because we self-catered, we could tailor meals to taste and timing—early breakfasts before hikes, picnic lunches packed the night before, hearty dinners whenever we returned. It made the trip feel personal and self-sufficient without sacrificing luxury.
Trail Highlights
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Blombos Cave heritage: Standing where the earliest known artists once lived.
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Wild coastlines: Continuous views, birdlife, shifting light.
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Khoikhoi fish traps: A tangible link between ancient innovation and the tides.
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Geelkrans formations: Sandstone cliffs and aeolianite dunes shaped by the sea.
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River paddling: So much fun!
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Luxury base life: Returning each evening to Waterryk’s comfort, good food, and rest.
Challenges (and How We Managed Them)
Even with creature comforts, the Alikreukel is no walk in the park… well maybe it is… having fun after all can be quite exhausting!
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Soft sand: We tackled this by hugging the firmer sand closer to the waterline and wearing gaiters to keep sand out of our shoes.
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Rocky ledges: Trekking poles helped for balance, especially around Jongensgat Arch.
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Sun and wind: Wide-brimmed hats, sunscreen, long sleeves, and regular hydration.
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Tide timing: Critical near Blombos and Geelkrans; we planned start times around low tide.
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Fatigue: The combination of sea air and sand walking is deceptively draining—afternoons at Waterryk’s deck with cold drinks were our best recovery strategy… and plenty of recovery naps!
Practical Planning Tips
Best months: Spring (Sept–Nov) or autumn (Mar–May) for mild weather and whale sightings. Alas, we saw no whales or dolphins. It was quite windy on our coastal days.
Fitness: Moderate fitness required; walking on sand demands leg strength and endurance.
Packing list:
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Comfortable hiking shoes
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Lightweight daypack
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Sunscreen, hat, lip balm
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Layered clothing for wind and sun
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Snacks and at least 2 L water/day
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Gaiters (optional but useful)
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Binoculars for whale/dolphin watching
Navigation: Although the route is straightforward, tide awareness and local guidance are key. That’s why Derek, Jan and Johan are there. For once nobody was worried about getting lost!
Supplies: Stilbaai has good shops (and if you plan your trip properly, you can visit the market on Saturday on your way home) —luckily — because one pair of boots lost their soles in the briny sea air. Always pack duct tape.
Transport: We drove ourselves to Stilbaai but Derek sorted out any and all other transport while doing the trail.
Reflections and Takeaways
The Alikreukel Trail isn’t just about kilometres or fitness—it’s about perspective. Walking where early humans lived invites quiet contemplation about our place in time.
For four days, our world shrank to essentials: tides, wind direction, water bottles, and the next meal. Everything else—the pings of phones, the pace of work, the noise of headlines—faded away. (Well not completely. We did have wifi. We are not complete savages!)
Each evening at Waterryk, surrounded by friends, we cooked, laughed, and replayed the day’s adventures. And also an extraordinary game of 30 Seconds. Whoosh!
Luxury, it turned out, wasn’t about being served. It was about space to breathe, cook, talk, and rest in comfort after days filled with salt and sun.
On our last morning, as we packed up, the river was glassy calm. The horizon blurred into sky. It struck me that the trail, like the tide, has no clear end—only pauses. You leave footprints that vanish with the next wave, but the rhythm of the coast continues.
We drove away lighter, quieter, sun-kissed, and grateful.
In Summary
| Trail Essence | Coastal heritage walk through Blombos–Stilbaai with rich archaeology and scenery |
|---|
| Our Style |
Self-catered luxury slackpack based at Waterr yk Eco Lodge |
| Duration | 4 days, ~46 km walking + 4 km kayak |
| Highlights | Ancient caves, fish traps, dunes, olive farm, luxury lodging |
| Ideal For | Hikers wanting comfort, history, and wilderness combined |
| Best Moment | 30 Seconds |
If you crave a coastal hike that blends wild beauty with indulgent comfort, the Alikreukel Trail is an unforgettable choice. You can do it fully guided and catered, or—like us—create your own self-catered luxury version.
Either way, it will remind you that “luxury” can be simple: light packs, good friends, a hot shower, a soft bed, and the endless heartbeat of the sea.
Thanks
For photo and video creds:
Anni
Amenah
Bapoo
Derek
Ellen
Johan
Rashaad
Shanaaz
Soraya
Wow..spellbound as I read…bringing back that feeling and memories of Alikreukel….kudos to Gabiba and Dara for arranging this fantastic hike for all ‘The Before People’..lol…
It was lovely to meet you all. What a well written article. Thank you for sharing .
Louise Christie
kransfontein.com
Just woowwww Gabi.
What a read!!!! Just reading this blog brought back every nuance of our time spent there.