The Fynbos Trail - She Hikes ... A lot!

Trails, Tales and Terrapins

The Fynbos Trail in the Stanford-Hermanus area is my all-time favourite, and this past hike marked my seventh time soaking in its rich biodiversity and remarkable landscapes.

This trail offers an adventure through lush forests, expansive fynbos landscapes, and conservation initiatives that make each step worthwhile.

Cast Of Crazies

Day 1: A Night Hike... I choose the Leopard

Go easy. Go softly. Go steady.

The smell of primordial forrest

Ancient and wise nourishing my senses

Cleaning a mind of all doubts

Placing me in the driving seat of my mind and heart.

(S Bayat)

Our journey began with a relatively gentle 6-kilometer night hike, leading us through serene Milkwood and Afromontane forests.

The forest was like something out of a fairytale—ancient, shaded, and echoing with the sounds of hidden birds. But eerily silent at times, as if nature quieted herself for a moment, to check if there really were crazy humans about at night.

The Milkwoods twisted and turned in intricate patterns overhead, creating a spooky canopy. These forests are living relics, carrying the rich biological heritage of the area, and walking through them felt like stepping back in time.

The recent rains had left the ground exceptionally wet, so we opted for the escape route, bypassing some of the muddier sections and ending on the jeep track before reaching our first night’s accommodation, Conebush Cottage.

Taking this detour ended up a bit of bonus as we spotted a grysbokkie, as entranced with us as we were spotting its frozen figure in the dark, while endangered Leopard Toads hopped boldly across the road, not at all fearful of our presence.

Confession time, when we first spotted the grysbok, we thought … Leopard! But no… a terrified grysbokie so astonished to see a bunch of humans traipsing throught the dark, it literally couldn’t move? Sies tog!

We choose the Leopard.

Day 2: Pincushions, Waterfalls and a Grootberg

I am here, with my breath, under the eternal blue sky

Alone with the Divine

I remember this place – the bliss and gift of isolation

(S Bayat)

Day 2 kicked off with vibrant stretches of pincushion fynbos, their bright orange and pink blooms contrasting vividly against the deep greens of the surrounding bushes. I even managed to capture a sugarbird mid-flight.

Walking among these hardy yet delicate plants was a visual feast, each patch of fynbos a story of resilience and beauty.

The trail had changed due to flooding caused by the heavy rains last spring and now runs along the left river bank, where previously it ran along the right bank.

The bush had been cleared and we had to negotiate some boulders before switching to the right bank again and down the wooden stairs to the waterfall and the forest.

It was a bonus to be walking practically in the river above the waterfall.

The rushing sound of the water added a calm rhythm to our steps, and there was something deeply peaceful about the river’s presence alongside us.

Emerging from the forest, we faced a challenging ascent out of the valley.

The climb was steep and unforgiving, testing our legs and lungs, but the reward at the top was more than worth it.

Standing on the summit of Grootberg Peak, we were treated to panoramic views of the Breede River and surrounding hills, all bathed in the golden afternoon light.

We were on top of the world, with the entire landscape spread out beneath us.

After a steep descent, we arrived at Steynbos Forest for a lunch break. The forest was a cool retreat, perfect for resting and refuelling after a long morning of trekking.

For the last stretch, we took another, alternate route that bypassed some of the muddier sections due to the recent rain. This route led us past a serene swimming dam, though we decided against swimming and chose to keep moving toward our accommodation.

Our destination for the night, Witkrans Farm, felt like an oasis. Ian, one of the trail hosts, had already prepared the hot tub for us, and sinking into the warm water after a long day’s hike was the definition of bliss.

But not before our inveterate swimmers took a dip in the farm dam and encountered the local terrapins … fortunately no toes or fingers were lost in this adventure!

Day 3: Ancient Milkwood Forests, Fynbos Bliss, and the Final Peak

In this place

Surrounded by trees reaching out

Calling down under the earth

Here is where I can find the stillness to look around

Speak words of truth to the quiet surrendering rocks and dirt and earth

(S Bayat)

Day 3 is my favourite for good reason.

The day begins with a trek through sweeping fields of fynbos, with fragrant blooms and colourful proteas framing our path.

There’s a magic to walking through this unique vegetation—it’s like the land itself is alive, greeting us with new colours and textures at every turn.

This area leads us toward Bodhi Kaya, an old spiritual retreat that feels like a sanctuary within a sanctuary.

The next section took us through the ancient milkwood forest on Grootbos Farm.

Walking beneath these towering trees felt as though we were moving through nature’s cathedral, the sunlight filtering through branches in soft patterns. These forests are a crucial part of the region’s biodiversity, harbouring species that have been around for millennia.

The trail here runs through territory shared with leopards, a fact that fills each hike with a sense of thrilling anticipation. The Cape Leopard Trust has identified 19 leopards in this area, and while these elusive animals were nowhere to be seen, knowing they roamed at night, was exhilarating.

After passing through the forest, we climbed one final peak.

The ascent wasn’t easy, but the views made every step worthwhile. From here, we could look back over much of the ground we’d covered, and see Walker Bay in the distance, savouring the experience before descending toward our endpoint at Growing the Future.

Finishing the trail here felt like coming full circle, as we were reminded of the conservation work being done to protect this incredible ecosystem.

Conservation and the Heart of the Fynbos Trail

This is my home.

This is my hearth.

From this place I can see, feel, breathe, calculate, walk, run, swim, play, speak, sing. From this place I can serve.

From this place I can love.

(S Bayat)

Part of the Fynbos Trail’s appeal lies in the meticulous conservation efforts that are woven into the experience. This area is home to a stunning array of fynbos, and much of its diversity has been carefully documented by Sean Privett, a passionate conservationist dedicated to preserving this unique ecosystem.

His work has ensured that the various species of fynbos are not only protected but also shared with hikers in a way that enriches the experience. It’s one thing to walk through beautiful landscapes; it’s another to understand the significance of each plant and each habitat.

The trail also shares the territory with the Cape Leopard Trust, an organization working to protect these elusive predators. The presence of 19 identified leopards in the area is a testament to the effectiveness of their efforts, creating a natural environment where wildlife can thrive with minimal interference.

Unlike some areas where baboons have grown accustomed to human presence, the baboons here are still wild and wary of people. Their behaviour is a reminder that this land is preserved as a space where animals can live without human disturbance.

And let’s not forget the people-eating terrapins… best to wear aqua shoes next time you decide to take a dip in a farm dam!

Final Reflections

Connected to the eternal source of creation – I am ready.

To which of my Lords favours would I deny?

(S Bayat)

Every time I return to the Fynbos Trail, I’m struck by its combination of natural beauty and conservation. From Milkwood forests to panoramic peaks, from vibrant fynbos fields to riverine forests, the trail offers an unmatched hiking experience.

Whether it’s the thrill of walking through leopard territory or the simple pleasure of lounging in a hot tub or counting the stars, this trail keeps me coming back for each new adventure.

For anyone seeking an immersive, conservation-driven hiking experience, the Fynbos Trail is a must. Just be prepared to fall under its spell—and, like me, to keep coming back.