Southern Drakensberg, KwaZulu-Natal
Giant's What? A suitably fantastical name.
When I first heard of this hike, it conjured storybook images of Jack and the Beanstalk, eliciting memories of fantastic beasts and great adventures. It was a ‘quaint’ name for a hiking trail in Africa, far from the world of the Brothers Grimm.
The truth, as usual, was a bit more prosaic.
The Giant’s Cup Trail derives its name from the distinctive cup-shaped depressions along the Giants Ridge in the Drakensberg Mountains.
Alas! No Jack. No beanstalk.
These large, natural formations, resembling cups or basins, are a unique feature of the landscape and play a significant role in the trail’s naming. The intriguing appearance of these depressions enhances the allure of the Giants Cup Trail, making it a must-visit destination for hikers and everyone who loves nature and the absence of human noise.
Most striking was the absolute absence of human noises. Although we were a whisper away from holiday resorts and had cell phone reception most of the way, the silence was serene.
I’ve done my share of trails. Some were forgettable, others downright spectacular. But the Giants Cup hike—a trail that’s been whispering in the winds of the Drakensberg for years, enticing hikers with promises of breathtaking vistas and rugged beauty—is special.
Ensconced in the Southern Drakensberg of South Africa, this isn’t your run-of-the-mill stroll. It’s a 60-kilometer odyssey through rolling hills, pristine streams, and ancient valleys, where every step feels like a dance with the mountains themselves. This hike isn’t about ticking off a trail; it’s about immersing yourself in nature’s grandeur.
The Giants Cup hiking trail is the only hutted trail in South Africa’s Drakensberg or ‘Berg or Dragons Mountain.
Stretching approximately 60 kilometres through the UNESCO World Heritage-listed uKhahlamba-Drakensberg Park, the Giant’s Cup offers a journey through diverse ecosystems and history.
In quiet moments you can hear the murmurs of an ancient people whose stories we will never know. Yet their spirits persist, their faces carved in the unusual rock formations, their bones, long turned to dust, in the motes we inhale as we huff and puff our way up ancient paths trod by bare feet long forgotten.
This is a sacred place.
The Fellowship of the Cup
Day 0: Acclimitisation Day
Before embarking on the Giants Cup Trail, our group —decided to tackle Hodgson’s Peak.
This one-day excursion involved an exhilarating 4×4 trip up the infamous Sani Pass into Lesotho. The ascent was thrilling, with steep switchbacks and breathtaking views.
As we climbed higher, the landscape transformed into a winter wonderland. The climb to the highest peak in the Southern Drakensberg was challenging but worth every step. The panoramic views from the top were awe-inspiring, a perfect precursor to our upcoming adventure.
Summitting Hodgson’s Peak meant our bodies were well-acclimated to the altitude which stood us in good stead on Giants Cup.
That night at the Sani Lodge Backpackers, a cozy and welcoming spot nestled at the foot of the pass. The lodge was the ideal place to rest and prepare for the days ahead.
Just by-the-by the jams and cheese sold at the Clay Cafe are delish!
Its rustic charm and friendly atmosphere set the tone for our journey. We spent the evening eating wonderful food prepared by Krispy K, sharing stories, laughter, and anticipation for the trail that awaited us.
Day 1: Sani Pass to Pholelo Hut (Cobham) 13.5 km
We set off from the base of Sani Pass, our spirits high and the air crisp with the promise of adventure. The trail greeted us with gentle ascents and descents, meandering through vibrant green valleys and past clear streams.
Hodgson’s Peaks loomed in the distance, a constant reminder of the rugged terrain we were traversing.
Our first significant river crossing was the Gxalingenwa River, where we paused to refresh ourselves in its cool, clear waters of the Ngenwa Pool. The river’s gentle flow and the surrounding foliage created a serene atmosphere, a perfect snapshot of the Drakensberg’s tranquility.
After the pool the trail goes up for 300 metres and passes through a hidden cave, which is a cool (literally and figuratively) rest stop after that climb!
Further along, we crossed the Trout Beck stream, a smaller but equally charming waterway.
Here we encountered Tommy Topp Bridge, a rickety old thing we had to cross.
Arriving at Pholela Hut, we were welcomed by its rustic charm.
The hut, an old farmhouse with basic amenities, (including hot showers and electricity) provided a cozy end to our first day.
As we settled in, we reflected on the day’s journey and the breathtaking landscapes we had encountered over Aunty Blue Gloves’ delicious chicken curry!
Day 2: Pholela Hut to Mzimkhulwana Hut (Cobham) 9km
The second day began with the sun casting a golden hue over the hills as we left Pholela Hut.
This would be the shortest day on the trail. But we were surprised by the altitude gain in the second half of the day, although we reached the hut by lunch time with plenty of breaks along the way.
The trail led us through diverse ecosystems, with the gentle rustling of leaves accompanying our steps.
Crossing the Siphongweni River was a highlight, it’s clear waters reflecting the vibrant greenery of the surrounding forest.
We marvelled at Tortoise Rocks, a geological formation that seemed almost out of place amidst the rolling hills. These large, rounded boulders resembled the shells of giant tortoises, adding a touch of whimsy to the landscape.
Our route also took us past the Mzimkhulwana River, where we took a break to enjoy the cool, clear waters. The river’s gentle flow and the surrounding greenery created a peaceful atmosphere, perfect for a tea break.
Mzimkhulwana Hut, nestled among the trees, offered a serene refuge for the night. Nearby, the Siphongweni River provided a refreshing swim option for anyone mad enough to brave zero-degree water!
We were none so brave.
On this day there are no mattrasses on the beds. Note the rolled foam mats on our backpacks. We were prepared.
Day 3: Mzimkhulwana Hut to Winterhoek Hut (Garden Castle) 12 km
After a less-than-restful night, thanks to our hard bunks and night-time bathroom shenanigans, including the appearance of Darth Vader, the third day led us from Mzimkhulwana Hut to Winterhoek Hut, a journey across a high plateau between Little Bamboo Mountain and Bamboo Mountain.
This stretch of the trail was marked by rugged beauty and bizarrely eroded rock formations, creating a landscape that was both challenging and captivating.
We crossed the Mzimkhulwana River via a hanging bridge (yes another one), offering stunning views of the surrounding valley.
Our path also took us past Crane Tarn, a small mountain lake where we did not, unfortunately, spot any cranes, but where I did walk through some mud. On the day I was not wearing gaiters. Murphy much.
Like most of the trail, certain sections were burned by controlled fires. We suspect this may be a combination of fire breaks and a plan to eradicate alien species such as wild wattle. But I am not entirely sure. It could also be part of the agricultural process.
Further along, we crossed the Killicranckie stream, named by Scottish settlers. This narrow valley, with its dense vegetation and clear waters, provided another idyllic rest spot where we took our lunch break.
We had been making good time and almost continued to the Winterhoek hut for lunch but the Chairperson, Her Krispiness, decreed we have lunch at the river.
This turned out to be a sage decision. The trail had changed in the 2 years since Papa Grizzly had last done it, so it took us a while to orientate once we reached the road to Garden Castle, passing lakes and trout farms along the way.
Winterhoek Hut, located at the base of Garden Castle Peak, offered a cozy and inviting refuge after a long day on the trail.
The huts consist of 8 rondavels, all in various stages of dilapidation, which nevertheless provide adequate beds, a kitchen (if a sink and a few rickety tables a kitchen make) and two adequate cold-water bathrooms.
The location, however, surrounded by towering peaks and lush vegetation, provided a magical end to the day’s adventures.
That night the stars showed off a bit and the wind howled so loudly, we thought we were back in Cape Town for a minute.
This is a stunning trail. Even in winter. What a pity the authorities don’t invest more in it’s infrastructure. There are combination locks on some of the huts. I didnt realise I had not asked for the combinations.
Luckily Signwriter and Papa Grizzly are ace locksmiths and figured them out anyways! Ysters!
Day 4: Winterhoek Hut to Swiman Hut (Garden Castle) 13 kms
Day four took us from Winterhoek Hut, up past the rondavels, to Swiman Hut, skirting the base of Garden Castle and offering stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
The day’s hike was marked by several notable, albeit dry, river crossings.
Water can be scarce in the Drakensberg in winter (summer rainfall area) and while we didn’t run out of water, we did enjoy drinking from the icy cold streams we encountered.
Yes. The water in the streams and rivers is deliciously drinkable.
We crossed the Mzimude River, that provided a refreshing break from hiking.
The river’s clear waters and surrounding greenery created a tranquil atmosphere, perfect for a mid-morning pause. Again, we were doing good time and would have lunch at Swiman Hut on Day 4.
The trail also took us past Black Eagle Pass, where we paused to take in the breathtaking views of the Drakensberg escarpment. The pass, named for the Verreaux’s Eagles that soar above, provided a dramatic backdrop to our journey.
Crossing several smaller streams, we finally arrived at Swiman Hut. The hut, an old forestry house with hot showers! provided a comfortable refuge. Its location, nestled among trees, offered a peaceful atmosphere, perfect for a relaxing evening and restful night’s sleep.
Day 5: Swiman Hut to Bushman's Nek (Garden Castle) 12 km
Hugging Rocks!
That was the theme of Day 5 according to Aunty Blue Gloves. It’s about savouring every second of the last day.
Our final day on the trail took us from Swiman Hut to Bushman’s Nek, traversing a narrow valley and offering stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
The day’s hike was marked by several significant river crossings, each adding to the sense of exploration.
We crossed the Mzimude River to regroup.
The river’s clear waters and surrounding greenery created a tranquil atmosphere, perfect for a mid-morning rest.
Continuing our journey, we crossed several smaller streams, each adding to the day’s sense of wonder.
The final stretch to Bushman’s Nek included a stop at Langalibalele Cave, a fascinating geological formation.
The cave, with its deep overhang and intricate rock formations, provided a dramatic and intriguing conclusion to our adventure.
Definitely the highlight of Day 5 for me. We tarried awhile.
At the cave we met fellow Capetonians, Terry and Colleen Stow from Durbanville, who overheard our lustful cravings for Stoney ginger beer.
On these multiday hikes you often crave certain foods. The Chairperson was so looking forward to some ginger beer.
So later that afternoon, when we ran into the Stow’s again (while the wind smacked us around while descending a gorge) they offered us a lift from the Bushman’s Nek car park to a nearby shop to get some treats and the sugar and milk we’d run out of.
This country is amazing. Thank you, Terry and Colleen!
Reflecting on our journey, we realized that the Giants Cup Trail had offered more than just a hike through stunning scenery.
It had provided a unique opportunity to connect with nature, challenge ourselves, and create lasting memories with friends. Each day’s hike, marked by its unique challenges and rewards, had brought us closer together and deepened our appreciation for the natural beauty of the Drakensberg.
Reflections
The Giants Cup Trail is more than just a hike; it’s an adventure that challenges and rewards in equal measure.
From the rugged peaks of the Drakensberg to the tranquil valleys and rivers, each day offers something new and exciting.
For anyone seeking a true adventure and a chance to connect with nature, the Giants Cup Trail is a journey not to be missed.
Day: Happy Birthday!
Happy Birthday Bookie!
What a way to celebrate.
Special thank you to Ridwaan Kathrada & his family for their warm breakfast welcome and lunch send-off INCLUDING a surprise birthday cake!
Your hospitality will always be appreciated 🙂
In Gratitude:
The 9 other crazy people who thought this was a good idea 🙂
Ridwan, Ismail & Aisha Kathrada for your amazing Durban hospitality
Sne – you are the best driver
The staff at Sani Lodge (Jabu & Miriam) who were so kind and accommodating to us
Stuart from Drakensberg Adventure
The Stows for being extraordinarily kind to strangers in a strange land
Photo and video creds to Wasielah, Abdullah & Ellen
Sting for the amazing lyrics to ‘Fields Of Gold’. (c) All Rights Reserved. And to Ellen for the inspiration.
Stunning read.. And absolutely amazing trip. It is Def a memorable trail to do. Loved it…
What an epic adventure!
wow i am loving the blog and the hike itself looks amazing would love to this someday in shaa Allah. It looks awesome and you guys seem to have had fun as well celebrating a birthday of a beautiful woman Washeela Adams 🙂
Loved reading about your adventure. Very well documented with awesome photos.
Hope to do it one day.
Aslm. Amazing hike. Please add it to your bucket list. We are looking at the Drakensberg Mini Traverse for April 2025 iA
Love reading your Blog.