The Leopard Trail

Baviaanskloof 23 – 27 June 2023

The Leopard Trail in the Baviaanskloof is a popular hiking and backpacking trail located in the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve, in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa.

The Baviaanskloof, meaning “Valley of the Baboons” in Afrikaans, is a rugged and remote wilderness area known for its stunning natural beauty and biodiversity.

With its rugged mountains, deep valleys, and meandering rivers, this reserve stands as a testament to the pristine beauty of unspoiled landscapes. Far from the bustling world, it offers a rare opportunity to immerse yourself in the pure wilderness, where nature’s hand has shaped a sanctuary of unrivalled magnificence.

Before doing this hike, you should prepare to be captivated by the views that unfold throughout Baviaanskloof. As you enter the reserve, you are surrounded by towering cliffs. Cell phone reception dies, and the valleys and hills grab your attention on an often dodgy gravel road.

I did this trail a year ago, and the damage the recent rains have done to the road is marked. However, some good driving skills (thanks Chucky!) and patience will overcome that. There were even some ‘flood damage’ warning signs posted.

From challenging climbs to adrenaline-pumping 4×4 trails, Baviaanskloof caters to all, ensuring an authentic and unforgettable experience amidst the raw beauty of the reserve.

Baviaanskloof teems with wildlife, including wild horses, whom we spotted at least twice over the four days on the trail.

While the elusive leopard claims the spotlight, troops of baboons and playful monkeys abound. Everything at the huts and base camp are baboon proofed.

Antelope species gracefully roam the landscapes and while we never observed them on the hiking trail, we did see beautiful grysbok as we left the reserve… casually observing us, as if to say… ‘thanks for leaving human.’

A multi-day hiking adventure that unveils the heart of Baviaanskloof. This captivating trail traverses mountains, valleys, and forests.

Strategically placed overnight huts provide comfortable accommodation with gas burners, gas showers and flush toilets. The communal kitchen is well equipped with everything you could need on a slack-pack.

The trail’s moderate difficulty level requires a reasonable level of fitness.

Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve is committed to conservation, and visitors are encouraged to practice responsible tourism. Embrace the Leave No Trace principles to minimize your impact and preserve the pristine environment for future generations.

By respecting and protecting this precious ecosystem, you become an active participant in the preservation of Baviaanskloof’s unique biodiversity.

About the Leopard Trail:

The Trail: The Leopard Trail is a four-day, three-night hiking trail that covers a distance of approximately 63 kilometers (39 miles). It offers hikers an opportunity to explore the diverse landscapes of the Baviaanskloof, including mountains, valleys, riverine forests, and open plains. We had plenty of rain over the 4 days, especially on night 3, so the forests gleamed!

Wildlife: The trail is named after the elusive leopard, which is one of the main attractions of the area. While spotting a leopard is rare due to their elusive nature, you may encounter other wildlife such as baboons, monkeys, various antelope species, and a wide variety of bird species. We did see plenty of leopard spoor on our hike, including some close to our day 3 camp.

Scenic Beauty: The Baviaanskloof is known for its breathtaking scenery, characterized by towering cliffs, deep gorges, crystal-clear rivers, and an abundance of indigenous flora. The Leopard Trail provides opportunities to witness these natural wonders up close.

Accommodation: Along the Leopard Trail, there are three overnight huts strategically located along the route to provide accommodation for hikers. These huts are equipped with basic amenities such as bunk beds, cooking facilities, and hot water ablution blocks. By hiking standards, this is pure luxury.

Permits and Booking: Due to the limited number of hikers allowed on the trail at any given time, it is necessary to obtain permits and make bookings in advance. This ensures the preservation of the wilderness experience and helps manage the impact on the environment.

Difficulty Level: The Leopard Trail is considered moderately challenging, and hikers should have a reasonable level of fitness and be prepared for long, steep climbs and descents. Proper hiking gear, including sturdy footwear, is essential. The oldest person in our group was a fit and sprightly 75.

Conservation: The Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve is a protected area that aims to conserve its unique ecosystems and wildlife. Hikers are expected to follow Leave No Trace principles, respecting the environment and leaving it undisturbed.

To book: Go Baviaans | The Leopard Trail,

The Cast

Road Trip

Route 62 is a scenic road that stretches from Cape Town to the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve in the Western Cape province of South Africa. Known as one of the best drives in the country, this route offers a journey through diverse landscapes, charming towns, and a wealth of cultural and natural attractions.

Starting in Cape Town, the vibrant Mother City, Route 62 winds its way through the Western Cape’s Winelands’ towns of Robertson, Worcester, and Montagu along the way offer a glimpse into the region’s rich history and showcase architectural gems, such as Cape Dutch-style buildings.

As the road meanders eastward, the landscape transitions into the semi-arid beauty of the Little Karoo. Towering mountain ranges, vast plains, and dramatic rock formations create a stunning backdrop for the journey.

Oudtshoorn, known as the ostrich capital of the world, beckons with its intriguing ostrich farms and the awe-inspiring Cango Caves, an underground wonderland of stalactite and stalagmite formations.

We left late on the afternoon of Friday 23 June, and spent the night at our favourite backpackers in Oudtshoorn, with our delightful host, Ilse, of Karoo Soul.

Shukran to Aunty Blue Gloves for a sublime chicken curry and roti supper!

The next day we drove to Cedar Falls Base camp, in the heart of the Baviaanskloof, passing through De Rust, a quaint (though I hate this word, it is bon juste) little town situated at the foot of the Swartberg Mountains and is known for its charming atmosphere and stunning natural surroundings.

This route showcases the beauty of the Little Karoo and the vast landscapes of the Eastern Cape.

As the road approaches the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve, the landscape becomes more rugged and remote.

Route 62 serves as a gateway to the Baviaanskloof, from lush vineyards to arid deserts, from charming towns to untamed wilderness. It is not just a road to be travelled but a journey to be savoured, where each bend reveals new vistas and each town unfolds its own unique character.

Day 1: Cedar Falls Base Camp to Camp 1

The journey begins at Cedar Falls Base Camp, situated within the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve. As we gather at the camp, we receive essential information and orientation about the trail ahead. The base camp provides basic facilities (hot-ish showers, kitchen, and rustic accommodation options), offering a comfortable starting point for our adventure.

Cedar Falls Base Camp is the starting point for the Leopard Trail. Hikers gather at the base camp to receive essential information, orientation, and safety briefings before setting off on the trail. This ensures that participants are well-prepared and have a clear understanding of the trail’s challenges and requirements.

Once prepared, we set off on the Leopard Trail, venturing deep into the heart of the reserve. The trail’s first leg took us through a mesmerizing tapestry of towering mountains, dense forests, and crystal-clear (albeit dry) rivers. The untouched beauty of the surroundings sets the tone for the days to come.

By hiking standards, the Leopard Trail is on the more expensive side, but it is worth every penny.

At Base Camp each hiker received an ammo box for their personal belongings (slack pack, remember!), the group also received a cooler box and a camping freezer. In total 14 boxes had to be lugged from hut to hut.

The organisers need the boxes loaded on the bakkie no later than 2pm on Day 1 to get it to the hut on time.

We dawdled in Oudtshoorn – let’s say I picked up a stalker, as well as extra rotis — and so got to the base camp a bit later than planned. Also, the road was in a bad condition, and we took our time coming in, since we had a trailer attached.

Lunch warmed while the ladies explored the concession store at base camp. Window shopping for after the hike!

When we set off at 2.30pm, we barely stopped for a pic. There was an intimidating ‘hill up’ ahead, euphemistically called ‘Kickstart Hill’, as well as a herd of wild horses. The first day is approximately 10km long and took us 3 hours at an easy pace.

The Camp 1 facilities were lovely. As are all the camps on the trail. However, we found that the gas tanks for the showers were all empty, so we were not able to get a hot shower and there was too little wood for the fire pit – we planned to braai – and the indoor woodfire.

But we managed, and a convivial supper was had that night followed by A Neesa’s delicious vermicelli for dessert.

We left a note for management the next morning.

Note: This is a slackpacking trail boasting certain amenities. A hot shower is one of those perks we expect on this trail. Otherwise, this hike would not be as do-able in winter. And it has been one of the coldest winters I can remember.

Day 2: Camp 1 to Camp 2

It was overcast. Perfect hiking weather.

The highlights on Day 2 include, lunch stop at Reflection Pools, where you can spot bushman paintings on the walls and running the labyrinth after Labyrinth Hill.

Reflection Pools, when I first did the trail last year, resonated with me. I felt the spirits of our ancient ancestors imprinted on the rock, much like their paintings. There is something hallowed about this land that reached into my soul and refused to let go. Which is why I will do it again very soon.

Basheerah provided us with soup to warm us with our burgers!

This trail was purportedly designed by hikers. As you can tell by the cheeky little comments they leave along the trail.

When we got to the camp on Day 2 it started to rain.

Fortunately, the guys who shlepped our boxes from hut to hut got the memo re the gas and wood and we had plenty of both.

The best part of the day was taking a hot shower outside in the rain! To protect the innocent, pics of us showering in the rain will not be published in this blogpost.

Dirty Toes took it to the next level with a yoga session after supper. Again, to protect the innocent, videos of dodgy poses will not be published here.

Day 2 is approximately 18kms long and we got to Camp 2 at approximately 4pm.

Day 3: Camp 2 to Camp 3

After a long hot shower, Aunty Neesa’s dessert and an invigorating yoga class, we were ready for the longest day of the trail.

Day 3 is approximately 22km long and includes 3 hills called “Honeybush Hill”, “Inconvenient Truth” and “Ain’t So Bad” (This signpost is gone, but it was there last year).

Truthfully, none of these hills are ‘horrible hills’ if you are reasonably fit. One in our group had recently undergone knee surgery and though she may have been putting on a braver face for our benefit, seemed to be coping well by hiking within her capabilities and managing the hills sensibly.

Either way she is a hero! Special shout out to our sweeper for his patience with the recalcitrant backmarkers! (Remind me to give you a lollipop!)

Yoga on the trail!

When we got to camp 3 it started to rain.

The rain carried on throughout the night. In the most supreme of ironies, the gas tanks for the showers were full but the igniters which are operated by solar-powered mechanisms did not work because the solar batteries were run down, due to the overcast weather of the last few days. Frustrating much?

I did write to the management after the hike and suggested they get an additional solar battery during the winter months. It can get extremely cold at night in the Baviaanskloof. And a hot shower is heaven after 22 kms.

But hikers, being make-doers, warmed water in pots and bathed in the basins inside the sleeping cabins.

If we are reasonably clean and well-fed, we are fine. Also the dinnertime conversation was incomparable! (No, no, no, I cannot tell. What happens on The Leopard Trail stays on the Leopard Trail!)

Day 4: Camp 3 to Cedar Falls Base Camp

The last day dawned as the rain let up.

In the early morning hours, I thought we may have to take a ride on the bakkie to base camp. I must acknowledge our team, 90% of which are over 60 years, and the oldest being 75 years, that not one of them mentioned bailing on the hike because of the rain. Definitely not fair weather hikers!

The final day would take us through Birdsong Valley. I did notice some dawdling and people dragging out the Day 4 start pic. Did they, like me, not wish to end this adventure?

We had bonded, for sure.

Eventually, we took off for Cedar Falls Base Camp, over Fond Farewell Hill. We finally found Basheerah’s ‘arch’ before crossing the endless Cauldron Valley.

Towards lunch time it started to rain again. The second part of our group were drenched when we ran the final bell, welcoming everyone home!

Alas, all good things...

The Leopard Trail is more than just a hiking adventure; it’s an immersive experience into the heart of Baviaanskloof’s unspoiled wilderness.

From the starting point at Cedar Falls Base Camp to the camps along the way, each step unveils new wonders and invites you to connect with the raw beauty of the reserve.

This unique experience requires preparation, permits, and adherence to Leave No Trace principles. The trail’s magnificence lies not only in its untouched landscapes but also in the commitment to preserve this natural wonder for generations to come.

Embark on the Leopard Trail, and let the untamed beauty of Baviaanskloof leave an indelible mark on your soul.