The Naukluft Hiking Trail - She Hikes ... A lot!

Discovering Namibia's Untamed Beauty

Welcome to Namibia, a land of boundless wonder, where captivating landscapes and diverse cultures paint a tapestry of unique experiences.

We embarked on an unforgettable adventure in the heart of this African gem, exploring its rich history, vibrant people, and one of the toughest hike in Southern Africa.

Namibia: Where Nature Meets Heritage

Namibia, located in southwestern Africa, boasts a history that weaves together ancient traditions, colonial legacies, and the dawn of a new era.

Gaining independence from South Africa in 1990, Namibia is a young nation, embracing its past while forging into a hopeful future.

The people of Namibia are the heartbeat of this nation, with diverse ethnicities like the Ovambo, Herero, Damara, Nama, and San contributing to its rich cultural tapestry.

Their traditions, expressed through mesmerizing ceremonies, traditional music, dance, and art, are a testament to the enduring spirit of this united society.

I confess I fell in love with the people of Namibia. Everyone we met was super kind and welcoming.

NWR: Embracing Conservation and Hospitality

Amidst Namibia’s pristine wilderness lies the Namibia Wildlife Resorts (NWR), a beacon of conservation and hospitality.

Established in 1998, NWR plays a vital role in preserving the country’s natural heritage while offering visitors a chance to experience its unparalleled beauty.

The NWR-operated Naukluft Rest Camp serves as the gateway to the Naukluft Hiking Trail. Nestled at the foot of the Naukluft Mountains, this tranquil oasis provides a serene starting point for adventurers seeking an escape into the wilderness.

The NWR’s commitment to sustainable tourism and responsible management ensures that Namibia’s remarkable landscapes and wildlife thrive for generations to come.

Conquering the Naukluft Trail: An Epic Journey

The Naukluft Hiking Trail, located in the South of Namibia within Namib Naukluft Park’s easternmost part, spans 120km of pristine nature with rugged terrain.

The trail’s elevation ranges from 1250m to 1950m above sea level.

Hiking is recommended only between 1 March and 31 October due to the excessively high summer temperatures.

Even in mid-winter, daytime temperatures can exceed 30 degrees. While the nights can be sub-zero. As we were about to find out.

The trail is challenging and not suitable for unfit hikers.

A valid medical report, dated within 30 days of the start date, must be submitted to the nature conservator at the Naukluft Park Office.

On day 4, hikers can use the Tsams Ost shelter’s steel locker to leave food parcels for the subsequent 4 days, requiring a 5-hour round trip to drop them off.

However, for a very reasonable fee, the staff at the Naukluft Rest Camp will drop it off on Day 4, which means you can have fresh meat and produce delivered for the second half of the trail.

This is an option I highly recommend.

The trail begins and ends at the Naukluft campsite, offering camping facilities, firewood, and hot showers.

We, however, drove from Capricorn (about an hour away), outside the reserve.

Hiking conditions are rough, dry, and hot, and I carried 3 litres of water a day… and drank most of it.

Fires are prohibited, but we found evidence of fires made by hikers before us. The terrain is hard, steep, and rocky, and overnight temperatures can drop to freezing, necessitating warm clothing. I was very happy I packed my down jacket.

Throughout the trail, you traverse dry river canyons with steep sections aided by chains. Those afraid of heights should be cautious, as a 20m length of light rope proves useful for handling steeper areas.

The trail offers encounters with various wildlife, including Steenbok, Springbok, Oryx, Kudu, Mountain Zebra, Dassie Rat, Chacma Baboon, Rock Dassie, Klipspringer, and the endemic Hartmann’s mountain zebra.

Over 200 bird species have been documented, and vigilance against snakes and scorpions is advised.

We were blessed to encounter springbok, dassies and herds of zebra.

Day 1: Naukluft campsite - Putte shelter (14km)

Starting at the main campsite, you’ll encounter two steep ascents of 200m each, providing breathtaking views of the valley and desert hills.

The Putte overnight shelter can be reached after a strenuous hike.

We started too late. 11am is not the time to start a hike. It meant we covered the first half and hilly section of the trail in the heat of the midday sun. It also meant we got to the shelter after dark.

In a way the darkness was a blessing since we couldn’t see how basic the hut was. We were just happy to find it!

Nevertheless, a shelter is a shelter, and it was fun trying to find the water pump with only headlamps.

I wasn’t brave enough to try the long drop.

Day 2: Putte shelter - Ubisis shelter (15km)

We descended into Ubusis kloof, the first of many impressive dry canyons. Chains are in place for safety during challenging sections.

After an interminable hike after the exhilarating chains section, we finally got to the Ubusis hut, an old farm cottage equipped with flush toilets and a cold shower.

The entire time I was trying not to think about how I was going to go back up those chains the next day.

When we were there the toilets had been closed off and there was no running water, so we had to have the youngsters climb into the Jojo to fill our bladders and bottles. After some fiddling, a trickle of water flowed out of the tap eventually.

Cast of Crazies

Day 3: Ubisis shelter - Alderhorst shelter (12km)

After backtracking to ‘Bergpos’ windmill, the hike becomes a comfortable stroll across the plateau.

In other words you have to go back through the canyon; up the chains you came down the day before…

The chains were both the scariest and best part of the day. Going up was not as easy as going down.

Day 4: Adlerhorst shelter - Tsams Ost shelter (17km)

On day 4 we wound through the Tsams River gorge, including a steep ascent to bypass a waterfall. On this day you will get to a sign that takes you back to the rest camp. This is for people who choose to do the 4-day option.

Fortunately, we are not such sensible people, and despite a sleepless night for most of us, soldiered on.

I confess I was ready to call it on Day 4. It was just sheer bloody-mindedness and a severe anathema to quitting, that I didn’t.

More importantly, I couldn’t guarantee that I would ever pass this way again.

And of course, my hikers’ ego, which could not abide the idea of NOT hiking the full 8 days.

Beautiful springs greet you before reaching Tsams Ost shelter, after an endless gravel road.

But we were delighted to find Martha (Martie) and Marco with our resupplies, as well as ice, Coke, Appletizers and Stoney Gingerbeer.

It was a good day followed by ice cold drinks and a braai.

Also Martie promised to have freshly-baked bread for us when we finished the trail on day 8.

Day 5: Tsams Ost shelter - Die Valle shelter (17 km)

Day 5 started with a steep ascent up ‘Broekskeur,’ or ‘Skew Pants’, followed by a trail through euphorbias and quiver-trees.

This was my favourite day. The terrain was more varied and there was a lot more greenery in the canyon. We also came across a troop of baboons.

Thankfully the baboons are untamed, as people don’t feed them, and stayed away from us.

Day 6: Die Valle shelter - Tufa shelter (16 km)

A steep climb … the emphasis on steep, to the top of the ‘Die Valle’ waterfall, around 200m high.

Pools above the waterfall offer a refreshing swim but it was just too cold.

The wind had picked up through the night and the chill never left the morning air

Day 7: Tufa shelter - Kapokvlakte shelter (14 km)

Another steep ascent leads to a dry waterfall, scaled with the help of chains, the toughest part of the trail.

This was a tough chain to negotiate. And not just because of the length, but it was freezing cold and the wind was gale force. Also heights… so scared shitless…

On this day, you reach ‘Bakenkop,’ the trail’s highest point, providing a stunning view of the Tsondap river valley below.

The wind was relentless. It literally blew us off our feet. The terrain is quite flat for most of the day but there are many loose rocks underfoot so you need to watch where you are going.

I hiked with all my warm clothes including my down jacket, and still felt that freezing wind slice through me. It was unpleasant and demoralising to be quite honest. At several points throughout the day, I questioned my life choices.

This was a tough night.

The shelter is near a clump of trees, which you would imagine would protect one from the elements, but no… the wind comes right into the shelter (well, its open, so duh…) and plays around. The wind inside the shelter is worse than outside the shelter.

It was a long freezing cold night. I was glad to see the morning of Day 8 so I could get the hell out of there.

Especially when one of the boys had a bad case of hypothermia.

We would later learn the temperature that night had been minus three degrees Celsius. When I did Everest Base Camp, I never experienced cold like this. Sapped the joy out of me like a Dementor.

Day 8: Kapokvlakte shelter - Naukluft campsite (16 km)

The final day dawned freezing cold but sunny and ended with crystal clear pools.

While some of the kids were brave enough to jump into the water, I was still traumatised from the wind.

At the Rest Camp we were welcomed with refreshing drinks and high fives. What I really wanted was a medal!

Conclusion

The 8 day Naukluft Hiking Trail is not for sissies. It is a physical, mental and emotional trial.

I am glad I did the full 8 days, but I think 8 days is masochistically long.

However, the best 4 days are the last 4, so be mentally prepared for long days, tough tough, climbs, exhilarating chains to ascend and descend, long cold nights with broken sleep. (And that’s not including your hiking mates’ snoring!)

The accumulated fatigue definitely affected my morale, and I was very happy to see the end of Day 8.

All said, the landscape has a spectacularly arid beauty unique to Namibia.

Will I do it again? Yes.

But I will be better prepared with my minus 10 sleeping bag and an extra down jacket.

I want to give a special thanks to the staff at the Rest Camp, especially Martie who came through with two loaves of freshly baked bread, which we scoffed in no time! It was delicious.

Betty at reception, who is an angel and the ladies in the kitchen who didn’t at all mind having us underfoot while they prepared for a busy dinner shift.

To my companions, I thank you for the memories.