Bainskloof Pass, Wellington
The Rockhopper Trail lures in unsuspecting adventurers with its untamed allure.
Those brave enough to heed the call find themselves ensnared in its treacherous terrain, where every step is a dance with danger amidst the gnarled roots and looming rock faces that guard its secrets.
In the heart of these mountains lies a realm teeming with life, unseen and unfathomable to the human eye. But beware, for amidst the whispers of the wind and the rustling of leaves, the silent predator, the endangered Cape leopard, prowls.
Whether you dare to embark on this perilous journey or simply wish to lose yourself in the embrace of nature’s enigma, the Rockhopper Trail awaits, a sanctuary of both beauty and peril that will haunt your dreams (literally! Just ask my 19 companions who dreamt of rocks and water that night) and beckon you back again and again.
The Limietberg Mountain Range
The Limietberg mountain range, home to Bainskloof Pass, is a rugged and majestic range situated in the Western Cape province of South Africa. Known for its dramatic landscapes and diverse ecosystems, the Limietberg range stretches across approximately 20,000 hectares of protected wilderness.
Its terrain encompasses steep valleys, towering peaks, and cascading waterfalls, offering breathtaking vistas at every turn. The range boasts a rich biodiversity, with a variety of plant and animal species inhabiting its slopes. Hiking trails like the Rockhopper Trail provide visitors with opportunities to explore this natural wonderland and immerse themselves in its beauty.
The Rockhopper trail is within the Limietberg Nature Reserve, a protected area. Permits are required. They cost R50.00 and can be booked through CapeNature.
We booked this hike for February 2024. But a fire that started in Tulbagh spread ‘like wildfire’ and closed the trail and the campsite at ‘Tweede Tol’.
Instead of parking our cars at Tweede Tol, trail’s end, we parked the cars on designated parking areas on the Pass itself, which required mad three-point-turn skillz!
Bainskloof Pass
Bainskloof Pass is a historic route, symbolizing human perseverance amid nature’s grandeur. Since its construction in the 19th century, it has linked communities and facilitated trade. Recently resurfaced, it bears testament to man’s attempts to subdue nature.
From ancient rock formations to flourishing flora and fauna, every step tells a story of survival and adaptation. We undertook a journey through time and nature, where the past meets the present, and adventure awaits around every corner.
This is easily the most beautiful and most treacherous mountain passes in the Cape. Much like the Rockhopper Trail itself.
Into The Wilderness
The trail starts at McBains Backpacking Lodge on Eerste Tol. We spent a memorable weekend there last year while doing the first leg of the Prestige Trail Series.
“Eerste Tol” and “Tweede Tol” derive from Dutch, meaning “First Toll” and “Second Toll.” These names originate from the historical toll collection along the Pass.
In the 19th century, tolls were imposed on travellers using the pass, with toll gates positioned strategically. “Eerste Tol” signifies the first toll gate encountered, while “Tweede Tol” marks the location of the second toll gate.
Although tolls are no longer collected, these names remain as reminders of the pass’s history and serve as geographical references in the area.
You have to show your permit to the staff at McBains and sign the register before they give you the code to the gate which accesses the trail.
The Adventure Begins
Our day on the Rockhopper Trail was an exhilarating plunge into the heart of wilderness adventure. Buffeted by the gusts of wind, we ventured forth, eager for the thrills that awaited us amidst the rugged terrain. The path led us to the banks of the Witte River where we would spend the rest of the day.
With adrenaline coursing through our veins, we embraced the challenge of boulder hopping downstream. The icy waters tested our mettle, but we surged forward, propelled by the rush of the river. Amidst the wind’s howl, we leapt from rock to rock, our laughter echoing off the canyon walls.
As we navigated the currents and mini waterfalls, our spirits soared with each triumphant leap. The sun painted the landscape in hues of gold as we navigated the river, our bodies weary but our hearts ablaze with the thrill of adventure.
As we forged ahead, some among us faced the daunting challenge of cramped muscles, slowing our pace and threatening to derail our quest to find the secret waterfall.
Every twist and turn brought new challenges and unexpected discoveries. With each obstacle overcome – and there were many – our resolve strengthened, fueling our determination to press on despite the odds.
With daylight waning and the wild unknown stretching before us, we made the tough decision to exit the ravine earlier than originally planned.
Yet, even as we adjusted our plan, the thrill of the journey never waned. Every twist and turn brought new challenges and unexpected discoveries. With each obstacle overcome – and there were many – our resolve strengthened, fuelling our determination to press on despite the challenges.
In the fading light of dusk, we emerged from the ravine, our bodies weary but our spirits undaunted.
Though our path had veered from the original plan, the adventure had forged bonds of camaraderie that would endure long after the journey’s end.
A Near Rescue? Not Hardly
In the heart of the ravine, where the echoes of rushing water drowned out all but the wildest of whispers, the terrain proved more challenging than expected.
However, we had no doubt that every single person could make it to where they needed to be. The problem was daylight. We were running out of it. This hike had been planned for the summertime when we had longer hotter days. But it was almost winter and we started late, for a variety of reasons, not the least being the gates only opened at 8am. That’s late for a hike by any standard.
We had no cell phone signal to let our families know we were OK and the hike was taking a lot longer than anticipated.
As the day wore on and shadows danced upon the rocks, we worried about our family members who would be wondering where we were and why we were unreachable. We would later discover they were so worried, they nearly called for a rescue!
With heavy hearts, exhausted bodies and rejuvenated souls, we made the difficult choice to abandon our quest for the elusive secret waterfall and opted to search for the safest way up the ravine before darkness overtook us. Though the allure of the unknown beckoned, we knew that in times of uncertainty, prudence must prevail.
Thankfully the lead guys were able to find a safe way up to the Pass.
As we emerged from the canyon’s depths, bathed in the soft glow of twilight, a sense of relief washed over us. Though our adventure had taken an unexpected turn, we had emerged unscathed, our spirits unbroken by the trials of the day.
There were many laughs on the car ride home, especially when the leftover snacks and lukewarm coffee appeared. Food!
Thank goodness for Aunty Blue Gloves and her DELICIOUS homemade almond butter and seed loaf!
Reflections
The Rockhopper Trail was no ordinary hike—it was a test of our collective strength, courage, and perseverance. Through wind-whipped gorges, icy river crossings, and unforeseen challenges – like lost phones and drowned sunglasses, we forged ahead, fuelled by a determination to conquer the wild unknown, but more importantly, ourselves.
In the face of these challenges, each member of our group proved themselves to be a beacon of resilience, drawing upon inner reserves of courage and fortitude.
Their unwavering spirit was inspiring!
As I reflect on the trials and triumphs of the day, I stand in awe of the indomitable human spirit, capable of overcoming even the most formidable of obstacles – quite literally! Huge stone boulder obstacles, icy river water and un-bushwack-able terrain.
The Rockhopper Trail may have tested our limits, but it also reminded us of the boundless potential that lies within each of us, waiting to be unleashed in the pursuit of adventure and discovery.
We will be back. And we will find that not-so-secret waterfall.
It’s been 13 years since I’ve done this trail. I didnt even know there was a waterfall back then.
I would have loved to get to that waterfall. But I have no regrets. Sometimes the journey is its own reward.
When next we do this trail again we will be sure to adhere to the following:
- Do it in summer.
- Start early
- Wear trail or aqua shoes with grip
- Don’t leave the lunch in the car
Photo and video credits to:
Ashraf
Aneesa
Abdullah
Boeta Cassiem
Eby
Rifqah
Saeed
Aslm well written Blog. Dearest Gabeeba.