Cape Town Day Hikes: The Harold Porter Botanical Gardens

Betty’s Bay Parkrun & The Leopard’s Kloof Hiking

Trail

 

14 January 2023

 

A Dirty Weekend

Playing Dirty!

We snuck off for a dirty weekend to Rooiels, a seaside town about an hour’s drive outside of Cape Town, as famous for its baboon population as it is for its beaches and magnificent mountains, to continue celebrating Mambi’s milestone birthday. 

 

In this case, ‘dirt’ must be taken literally, we meant to play outside and hopefully get ourselves covered in all manner of sand, dirt and grime. AKA ‘hiking’.

 

We got there early Friday afternoon, relaxed, and had a leisurely supper – Rif’s Perfect Pasta and scrumptious salads.

 

On Saturday we killed two stones with one bird.

 

We had long wanted to check out the famous Leopard’s Kloof waterfall trail inside The Harold Porter Botanical Gardens.

 

Located in Betty’s Bay, another seaside town, about 10 kms outside of Rooiels, the botanical gardens also boasted the Betty’s Bay Parkrun.

The Harold Porter Botanical Gardens

Entrance to garden

Cast Of Characters

FANTAsmagories! Bashe, Mambi, Chucky, The Bride, Rifi

Run for the love of it.

Run for the life of it.

Run. And keep on running.

(Bruce Fordyce)

Parkrun

Are we there yet?

Parkrun is a free, global event that takes place at 8am local time every Saturday morning in various cities around the world.

 

All you need to do is register and bring along your unique barcode.

 

Everyone is welcome, from elite runners to walkers to dogs and buggy-pushers. The South African Parkrun ambassador is none other than the Comrades Marathon legend, Bruce Fordyce.

Only 3 to go!

Chucky and I registered for Parkrun in 2016 but hadn’t participated in aeons. We thought it a good idea to dust off our barcodes and do the Betty’s Bay Parkrun since we would be in the gardens to do the hike anyway!

 

Multi-tasking, eh?

 

We left Rooiels at 7am. Sadly Pippa and the dogs couldn’t join us because the Betty’s Bay Parkrun is the rare instance where dogs are not allowed.

 

Why, you ask? 

 

Baboons.

 

Legend has it that a leopard once mauled and killed a child (who was on a hike with its parents/guardians). This angered the Rooiels residents, who, out of vengeance, shot and killed every leopard they could find.

 

The leopards were the baboons’ only natural predators, and with the decimation of the apex predator, the baboons thrived. 

 

They are a now a proper menace in the area, and there are warning signs everywhere..

 

On Sunday one interrupted our midday gabfest, forcing us indoors, scaring the dingis out of Mambi, and making me sacrifice our last 2 doughnuts to get it off the balcony.

 

A couple of hours later, while we were under baboon confinement indoors, another one took the opportunity to relieve himself on the balcony rail.

 

Up close they are quite handsome creatures, though. I say this because one dared to come to my bedroom window while I was trying to nap.  I scolded it to go away. 

 

Nap time ruined.

 

It was like living under an occupation. I understand the residents’ paranoia now. You have to be super vigilant.

 

The baboons are like ninjas, sneaking up on you when you least expect it. 

 

To avoid confrontation between man’s primate cousin and man’s best friend, no dogs are allowed in the botanical gardens. At all.

 

We saw no baboons the entire time we were in the park, unless you count this one…?

Hullo, my cousin!

Parkrun is a fantastic community event, and an ideal option for anyone who wants to get fit or just lead a healthier, more active lifestyle.

 

Many eventual Comrades ultramarathon runners started with Parkrun. In fact, some of them will happily tell you how hard their first Parkrun was to walk.

 

But Parkrun ignited a love for running; a love that saw them conquer ‘The Ultimate Human Race’.

 

I always say, ‘today, Parkrun, tomorrow, Comrades!’

 

For the so-called ‘runners’ out there who pooh-pooh a 5km ‘social’ run, Parkrun is a timed event which provides an ideal 5k time trail, especially if you do a flat course like the one found at the Rondebosch Common.

Out-of-towners!

Betty's Bay Parkrun Will Never Be The Same Again...

We arrived at the gardens early, eager-out-of-town-beavers.

 

Entry to Parkrun is free, so entry to the botanical gardens to do the Parkrun was also free. Ordinarily there would be a small entry fee. (Btw, it’s worth every penny).

 

I would like to commend SANBI (South African National Biodiversity Institute) for making the garden freely available to Parkrun participants every Saturday.

 

The Betty’s Bay Parkrun is one of the prettiest I have ever done, bar maybe the one in George. 

 

We wore trail shoes since we intended to hike afterwards. It was a good decision. Most of the run is on trail and consists of two loops, the first one which passes the Disa Gorge waterfall.

 

(In this case the two loops are slightly different, so not a bore, at all!)

 

The route is well marked, with green arrows demarcating the first loop and black arrows for the second loop.

 

Although it felt like we crossed a lot of bridges…

Betty's Bay Parkrun Course

Mambi’s issues with bridges, which vibrate as runners go over them, was hilarious.

 

Of course, she freaked out a little and Bashe and I had to take her hand, literally, and guide her across.

 

After the 475th time, she was much better at it. She is accomplished at posing on bridges though.

 

Now if I can just get her to jump off one… (Of course, with a rope! She my fliend, I would never let her jump off a bridge without a rope!)

Bridge Over Untroubled Water

Some of the regular Betty’s Bay Parkrun participants must have thought we were crazy.

 

The race director was congenial and funny and welcomed all the out-of-towners, including a group from New Zealand.

 

The botanical gardens boast stunning ponds and landscaped lawns, making it an ideal place for a picnic — After exploring the many trails, including the Leopard Kloof Hiking Trail, of course.

 

Hike first. Picnic later.

Thank you, marshall! Without marshalls there is no run!

The Gardens

Pretty Ponds

The SANBI have done a remarkable job of maintaining the gardens and making it accessible to the public.

 

There are a total of 7 hiking/walking trails for all levels of fitness, viz.

 

1. Zigzag Border Trail. A permit is needed for this one but we were unaware, so didn’t apply for one. I am placing this on one on the ‘next time’ list.

 

2. Leopard’s Kloof Trail. This is the one we came to do. Here there be waterfalls.

 

3. Fynbos Trail. A total distance of 610m, this walk is in the park and is a circular walk from the entrance or via the Bobbejaanskop (Baboon-head) contour, making it 1.8km. I am almost sure the Parkrun went along some of this trail?

 

4. Disa Gorge Walk. This is a relatively easy walk to the waterfall, which also forms part of the Parkrun route, and is just under 1km in distance.

 

5. Circular Route. The path through the cultivated section of the garden and is approximately 700m in distance.

 

6. 4 Ecosystems Walk. A short walk depicting the 4 types of ecosystems in the area, viz. forests, dunes, wetlands and fynbos.

 

7. Nivenia Path. Named after the blue, woody iris that line this path, this short walk is a mere 150m. (Is this the spot where they scattered Harold Porter’s ashes, I wonder??)

 

All of these trails are short and easy enough to be done in one day. 

 

It’s a lovely way to spend time if you happen to be in Betty’s Bay, and kid-friendly too. 

Trail Map

Leopard's Kloof Trail

No Swimming 🙁

After Parkrun, we left the botanical gardens and got our hydration packs (and snacks! Always snacks!) from the car.

 

We went to the main entrance of the park, to pay the admission fee and get the key to the gate which leads to The Leopard’s Kloof Trail.

 

A R50.00 (Fifty Rand) refundable deposit is required to get the key.

 

When we got to the admissions gate we asked for the key and the lady behind the glass asked if we had done the Parkrun. I said yes. She said we would need to pay to re-enter the gardens. I said yes, we know that. I told her we were 5 people.

 

She said that would be R250.00.

R50.00 for the key (refundable)

R200.00 (5 x R40.00)

 

I gave her R250.00. But once inside the park again, I checked my receipt, and saw it was only for the R50.00 for the key.

 

Where was my receipt for the entry fee?

 

Did she forget to give me my receipt?

 

I consulted with Chucky. We decided I should go back and ask for the other receipt.

 

When I went to ask for my receipt, I saw the cash I had given her still lying on the counter. (Yes, I still use cash!)

 

Another group had just come through but the cash I gave her was still lying on the counter.

 

R250. 2 x blue R100 notes and a pink R50 note still lay on the counter next to the till.

 

It could have belonged to the group that came after us. 

 

But she did not argue with me when I asked for my receipt.

 

Instead, she berated me for not mentioning we had 2 over 60s in our group. Not even an apology for not giving me a receipt. She didn’t need to check her system to reprint the receipt. She simply rang up the entrance fee. Again.

 

And gave me R20 change.

 

I don’t normally check my receipts. I don’t know what made me do it this time. I ended up paying R180 since our two seniors were eligible for a R10 discount each.

 

I have reached out to SANBI to report the incident. Maybe they should train their staff better?

 

My advice to anyone anywhere… check your receipt, especially if you are paying cash. 

Mmmmmap reading is a skilll... some people can do it upside down even

Eventually we figured out which way to go!

The Only Way is Up, Baby!

Who Was Harold Porter?

Plaque in granite in memory of Harold and Olive May Porter

Harold Nixon Porter was the first curator of ‘Shangri-La’, a garden and nature reserve in the Betty’s Bay area in 1955.

 

Upon his death, the management company who ran the reserve dedicated it to the National Botanical Gardens, who renamed it in Porter’s honour.

 

There is a plaque in the reserve to commemorate his gift to the nation. 

 

And both he and his wife, Olive May, had their ashes scattered in the park, although they died nearly 26 years apart, he in 1958, she in 1984.

 

But first the key to open the gate to get to the trail...

The Route

Follow Me

The route starts inauspiciously, with a stony path, marked with bright yellow arrows. Even I could not get lost.

 

We crossed a small stream and a pool of sorts. Please note there are several NO SWIMMING signs along the route, which is 1.5km in length, making it a round trip of 3km in total.

 

We crossed the stream again and stopped for Bashe and Mambi to do yoga poses and dance, respectively.

 

It wouldn’t be a hike without a Kurdish Rhino dancing, now would it?

Or watch on Youtube

Ladder Up!

The sound of water grew louder as we neared the falls. There were 2 big pools and a little one.

 

We took pics and posed on the sturdy wooden ladders leading up. The path is very well-maintained, and again, I recommend SANBI for their work.

 

At the second pool we saw red disas. Sadly, the pictures didn’t come out well, but they were there, just, just out of reach, as they should be.

 

We shared the trail with a family including several children; the youngest was in a carrier, and the oldest must have been about 8. They clambered up and down the ladders with ease.

 

They even joined us in singing a “Veels geluk liewe maatjie” for the 475th time to the birthday (still!) girl.

 

We tarried at the last pool for a while, enjoying the tranquillity and peace. The children’s laughter enhanced the harmony, rather than detracted from it.

Over there! Thats Where the disas are!
On the Fynbos Trail 2 Disa Kloof via a long scary bridge!

Eventually, after eating all the snacks we had Mambi (the only one who brought a hiking bag) carry, we made our way back down and out of the Leopard’s Kloof trail.

 

We followed the arrow leading to The Disa Kloof Trail. This time we could go onto the boardwalk to view the waterfall. (During the Parkrun the boardwalk to the waterfall had been closed off. We could see why. Imagine hundreds of runners crossing this wooden boardwalk every Saturday morning!)

 

Here we also spotted a few red disas on the opposite bank.

 

There were a few people in the garden, but we mostly had it to ourselves. We took time to explore all the trails, crossed over the bridges we had run over earlier that morning during the Parkrun, at a more leisurely pace.

 

Mambi put up a show for an elderly couple who had brought their camp chairs and were staring at an empty amphitheatre.

 

The Disa Gorge Walk

Chucky's Photobombers

After the fun and games…

shoo!

Holes In Poles?

Pole dancers?
Carpenter bees!

How awesome are bees? 

Hike Rating

Difficulty: Easy

 

Elevation: Flat (except for Leopard Kloof Trail)

 

Terrain: Paved paths/boardwalks/sand

 

Kid Friendly: Yes

 

For kid-friendly hikes in Cape Town, please check these out!

 

 

I highly recommend visiting the Harold Porter Botanical gardens.

 

If like us, you want to do the Parkrun, please be there by 8am on a Saturday morning.  Don’t forget your barcode. You can register for Parkrun here.

 

Take time to explore the walks in the park. Except for the Leopard’s Kloof trail, which requires some clambering up of ladders, none of them are remotely strenuous and the park itself is wheelchair accessible.

 

SANBI have gone out of their way to make these gardens idyllic.

 

Harold Porter would be proud. His idea to establish a piece of paradise in the area, has come to spectacular fruition.

Happy Birthday, Cido!!!

Sources:

home | parkrun South Africa home

| Betty’s Bay parkrun | Betty’s Bay parkrun Harold Porter –

SANBI Home – SANBI Nivenia stokoei

| PlantZAfrica (sanbi.org) History – SANBI

Some pics courtesy of RToyer & B Swartz-Emandien

2 thoughts on “Cape Town Day Hikes: The Harold Porter Botanical Gardens”

  1. Basheerah l

    That was a Crazy Weekend hope to Experience more Crazy.
    Stunning Pictures.

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