Redemption Song
Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery
None but ourselves can free our minds
Bob Marley
What does Bob Marley have to do with hiking you may well ask.
It’s a good question. Besides being an amazing poem set to music, Marley’s ‘Redemption Song’ is about freedom, mental, emotional, psychological, and physical. It resonates on a visceral level, even when you don’t know or understand the lyrics – like all great music.
It seemed appropriate today, in this context as I struggle to find the words to express the complete, the utter redemption I feel on this day, 29 December 2022.
If you don’t know why, please read about my experience on this trail in 2013.
The Cast
Day One: Cape Town To Ngubu Hut
We were running late. I hate being late.
We were supposed to drive convoy with Papa H and had to rendezvous with him at the Engen garage on the N2.
But because we were late (did I mention I hate being late?) the rendezvous point was moved to the Shell garage in Riviersonderend, a town 161 km outside of Cape Town.
We were supposed to be at De Vasselot campsite in Natures Valley at 12pm to meet the shuttle taking us to the start of the hike at Storms River Mouth. Not the most auspicious start to a long road trip.
I was grumpy because we had to drive 6000 kms (I’m exaggerating but it felt like 6000 kms) and start hiking today.
Ideally, I would have wanted to start the hike the next day. Storms River Mouth campsite is stunning. There are campsites, luxury chalets and everything else in between.
But some people had time issues, so a bit of a holiday before and after the hike was not an option.
Secret Rendezvous
At Riviersonderend we stopped for coffee and a comfort break. I was looking forward to seeing BasheeRush, who was in the other car.
As I exited the vehicle, I vacillated between ordering the coffee before or after I went to the bathroom. It was more practical to order the coffee first. Bashe rushed me outside the coffee shop, and we hugged as if we had not only seen each other 4 days ago.
She insisted on taking my coffee order and ushered me to the bathroom like she was telepathically connected to my bladder.
The Amir and Chucky joined us at the door to the ladies… (When I think about it now… ai!) Two grown-ass men hovering at the door to the ladies at a garage … dodge!
Couple of minutes later I walked back to the cars with Bashe, sipping my flat white, chitty-chatting.
Did I think it strange that our cute little Berxik (Kurdish for ‘cute little lamb’) had her camera trained on me? Nope. She is sweet kid. I would never suspect her of nefarious motives. Me, ever-the-clown, mugged for a pose instead.
I was, however, a little perplexed when Papa H took both cups of coffee from my hand. My coffee..! (I need coffee. It’s my make-me-human medicine.)
Coffee-less (EEK!) I chucked my wallet in the car.
Did I notice everyone watching me?
Nope. I thought they were waiting for me to sort myself out so we could hit the road again. Only when Lady F, she of the enigmatic Mona Lisa’s smile, nodded to the person next to her, did I realise something was up.
Mambi.
Mambi???
Mambi!!!
It took my (caffeine-deprived) brain several seconds to process. Interminable seconds for the impossible to become possible.
Mambi is here.
But Mambi is not on this hike…
We are very far from Cape Town. How did Mambi get here???
Pennies rained from heaven.
Enlightenment at last. Reality did not bite in this instance.
Duh!
O M G
I hugged her. I could not speak. My brain could not formulate a cogent thought, never mind a sentence.
Struck dumb.
Speechless.
I may have called random people ‘little shits. But with utmost affection and well-meaning!
Everyone had been in on it. Including Chucky and Bashe. Mambi had been added to the hike when a last minute spot opened and not one person who called themselves my friend, never mind spouse, told me.
I was much too happy to be annoyed.
You Must Have Been Kissing A Fool
My mood changed immediately, inversely proportional to the weather.
I have a vague memory of greeting a distant family at the same time, but the details escape me.
I had been punk’d!
I write this with the stupidest goofiest smile on my face.
I hate surprises. But I must admit … this one was brilliant!
Did I cry happy tears? Of course not! I Cowboys don’t cry … we tjank (That’s ‘bawl’ in Afrikaans).
I may have shed a tear or two of joy.
Back on the road, I felt immediately light-hearted. My two favourite girls were on the hike.
I had been feeling low because Mambi was not going to join us, especially after she wished us well just the day before.
I should strangle her for deceiving me. And the Chief Instigator for plotting against me.
And I will. Just as soon as I stop smiling.
Happy Days
The closer we got to Natures Valley, the more overcast the sky. The weather forecast predicted rain for the first 3 days, especially day 2.
Ever the optimist, I packed rain gear enough for Amathole.
I reasoned, if didn’t rain on day 4 of the hike, we would be fine. PTSD from Day 4 in 2013.
We arrived at De Vasselot, late. We had a quick lunch of chicken rotis before catching our shuttle to the start of the hike at The Storms River Mouth Rest Camp.
Here We Go ... Again!
It’s hard not to make comparisons when you’ve done a hike before.
Every hike is different because there are so many variables, the people, the time of year, weather, but mostly the people you are going to be sharing close quarters with for the next few days. It’s good to get along. It’s recommended you like each other.
Given my previous experience, I had many ghosts to exorcise.
I still wished we’d come a day earlier and spent more time at The Storms River Mouth Rest Camp, but I was elated to be there. I would not trade one minute or one person on this hike for any other.
I was already having the time of my life. (So many 80s pop references!)
The Final Countdown
We spent several lifetimes in mayfly years signing indemnity forms, medicals etc… maybe because we were excited, and glad to be out of the cars, we behaved like a bunch of teenagers released from detention: bouncy with excitement.
Load-shedding meant the Otter Office was unmanned and we couldn’t view the pre-hike briefing video. We did, however, receive our maps and tide tables. Tide tables are very important on The Otter Trail because Day 3 and Day 4 will include 2 big river crossings. Nerve-jangle!
After the obligatory ‘picture time’, we were ready to hit the trails.
The late Faieza Desai would famously sing ‘picture time’ to signal everyone to ready themselves for a group photo. It’s a habit we maintain to honour her memory.
Day 1 is just over 4 kms in distance. The trail starts in the forest and winds its way down, yes down, towards the rocky shoreline. It drizzled lightly earlier so the rocks were slippery and we started off slow and easy. We had all the time in the world.
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls
According to Mambi, there would be no ceasefire on this hike.
In January 2022, on The Amathole Trail, a war of waters had started between Mambi and most everyone on the hike. (I was Switzerland)
Although several subsequent peace treaties were negotiated, they were repeatedly broken by both parties.
There was going to be a lot of splashing and dunking of humans at rivers and oceans.
Exhibit A shows The Amir restarting the war by making sure Mambi got a good wetting at the waterfall.
Now we know who the Chief Instigator is!
But not before some of the crazies went for a swim while the rest took pics and enjoyed the view.
We did not see many day visitors. This is a popular spot for campers to explore but perhaps the grey skies deterred them. We didn’t mind. We had all the view to ourselves.
Ngubu Hut
Eventually we got to our first night’s rest, Ngubu hut. It was cool, but I was warm enough to appreciate a cold shower.
Each camp has 2 huts with 2 triple decker bunk beds each. We were an even gender split and since Mambi and I got to the huts first, we grabbed the hut with the best view of the ocean and closest to the bathrooms and communal kitchen area. Strategy!
During the Covid pandemic, SANparks had provided tents to the camps in line with social distancing requirement.
The tents were still there, and we were allowed to use them. At Ngubu hut, The Pillar snagged the one tent and the rest of us bedded down in the huts.
There is no electricity or hot water at the camps, but Papa H had a camp shower so anyone who wanted a hot shower could heat water if they wished.
I don’t mind a cold shower after a hike. I find it quite invigorating. After the initial shock, you feel refreshed and energised.
The human body is an amazing machine. After a cold shower, your body warms up quickly to compensate.
Boots off, clean, in comfy clothes, after a hot meal, you realise how little you need to be happy.
Supper was a delicious meal prepared by Lady F of the Mona Lisa’s smile. I was a happy camper!
Day 2: Ngubu Hut To Scott Hut
They Say Its Gonna Rain ... but first brekkie!
We woke early for morning prayers. It was still dark. As a native Capetonian I thought a black South Easter was trying to yank me from my dreamy depths. It took a second to realise it wasn’t wind or rain, but the roar of the ocean waking me.
We had only 9 kms of hiking to do today, so everyone (including yours truly) went back to sleep afterwards. To my utter horror, I slept for 2 more hours.
Breakfast was at 7.30am and everyone made their way to the boma for coffee, eggs made to order by our Pillar and chef. So spoilt on these hikes.
The weather looked bleak, and rain was predicted but we shlepped out the rain gear and set off happily at 9am.
Hill Up!
I did remember each day on this hike starting with a hill up. By day 4 even Mambi was complaining about the hill ups!
The distances are short but include a few brutal climbs. You need to be reasonably fit, or it will be a tough few days. The views, however, more than compensate.
Early in the day it had started to drizzle, lightly at first, then with some intent, before quitting abruptly.
I have a love-hate relationship with my poncho. It’s easier to take on and off than a rain jacket. When I say ‘easier’, I mean, I don’t have to take off my heavy backpack.
Kleinbos River
At 12pm we reached the Kleinbos River (Small bush River) where, after negotiating the crossing, we stopped for lunch.
Sadly, the river water is contaminated and no longer drinkable. SANparks has kindly provided potable water at all the huts.
Lunch was a leisurely meal, despite the post-rain chill, and the fresh fish burgers were scrumptious. Thank You Miss Mona Lisa.
As we left our lunch spot, we noticed a sudden rise in the river waters. It wasn’t raining but perhaps the tide was coming in.
It was a phenomenon to watch the rocks we had easily hopped over just an hour ago, suddenly submerge beneath the rising river.
We reached the second hut early and had plenty of time to take a dip and learn some Kurdish dance moves.
It was Christmas Day and supper was a spicy yoghurt chicken with roti, vegetables, and a green salad.
After all that dancing, people had worked up an appetite!
While some danced others took the opportunity to warm their gross boy toes at the fire.
Luckily The Juffie was there to make us a delicious boeber (sweet, hot milky drink with vermicilli, almonds and sultanas, lightly fragranced with cinnamon and cardamom) for dessert.
Photographs courtesy of MAbbas
Video courtesy of AAbbas
I loved it
On my this looks like so totally the best thing for the soul. I loved your comment about you don’t need much to be truely happy simplicity
is key. Looking forward to reading part 2!!
When are u joining us?
Absolutely awesome read…. You took me down memory lane. It was my first 5day hike many moons ago. Well done Bibs
I just love the way you tell a story. Find memories but we didn’t have such lekker food.
Pingback: India Venster (Again!) - She hikes... A lot!
Pingback: Crystal Pools Hiking Trail - She hikes... A lot!