We woke up early in Deurali. And for the first time in days… I had slept properly.
Deep, uninterrupted, the kind of sleep that only comes after complete physical exhaustion.
Even if it meant waiting for people to clear out of the dining room before we could have breakfast — because yes, people were literally sleeping everywhere. Floors, benches, tables. Wherever there was space.
It was surreal.
And cold.
Bitterly cold.
But I was snug in my First Ascent woollen thermals — worth every cent, no debate.
How we finally got here:
Part 1: Flight Chaos
Part 2: Airport Olympics
Part 3: The Trek Begins
Part 4: Stuff Gets Real
Part 5: Tough Decisions
Part 6: The Road To Deurali
The Final Ascent Begins
We left Deurali in sub-zero temperatures.
You could feel it instantly — in your lungs, your fingers, your face.
The trail wound upward, crossing rivers, climbing steadily toward Machhapuchhare Base Camp (MBC).
It wasn’t dramatic. It was hard. Every step reminded you where you were.
Altitude doesn’t shout — it whispers.
And then suddenly, you realise you’re out of breath doing something that should be easy.
MBC: The Waiting Game
We reached MBC and stopped for about an hour and a half. Partly to acclimatise. Mostly to wait.
By now, we had accepted our rhythm as two pace groups — and this was one of those moments where the faster group pauses, and the mountain reminds you: You move together. Always.
The Final Stretch to ABC
From MBC to Annapurna Base Camp… everything changes.
The landscape opens up. Snow begins to appear. The air gets thinner. The effort gets real.
We walked through snow, passed a frozen lake, stopped constantly for photos — partly because it was beautiful, partly because we needed the breaks to breathe.
Every step felt earned.
Arrival: Annapurna Base Camp
I got there first. Then Chucky. Then, one by one, the rest of the group arrived. And something happened that none of us expected.
We cried. Not polite tears. Not subtle. Proper, emotional, overwhelming release.
It wasn’t just about reaching Base Camp. It was everything. The chaos of getting here. The uncertainty. The setbacks. The people who didn’t make it. The journey none of us could have predicted.
Some had planned to do this trek in 2020 but then Covid happened. For me, I hadnt even considered it until 10 months ago.
And yet…
There we were.
Out of breath. Overwhelmed.
And deeply, ridiculously happy to be alive. And grateful. So grateful.
The Aftermath
As the weather began to turn, we made our way to the tea house.
ABC was quiet, we were of the first trekkers to arrive, but later it would be packed — one of the lodges had burned down months earlier — but somehow, we had two comfortable rooms and a delicious lunch.
Lucky doesn’t even begin to cover it.
Life at Base Camp
Dhurba gave us one very specific instruction:
Do not sleep.
Apparently, napping at that altitude is not your friend. So we stayed awake. Barely.
There was a snowball fight.
There was dinner (probably soup — we had developed a serious relationship with soup at this point).
Outside, the mountains surrounded us completely — Annapurna South towering like a silent guardian.
It was breathtaking.
And freezing.
But inside, we were warm.
More of our group arrived later — exhausted, emotional, elated.No showers again (not that there really were any).
That night, we stepped outside. Just for a moment. Under the moonlight, the snow-covered peaks glowed — ghostly, almost unreal.
By day, they felt like sentinels. By night, something else entirely. Quiet. Otherworldly.
That night I couldn’t sleep.
Sunrise at 6:03 AM
We were up before dawn to witness something we knew would be special.
At exactly 6:03am, the sun began to rise.
And slowly, the light touched the peaks.
It looked like the mountains were lit from within — like someone had placed candles inside them. I don’t have better words for it.
Even completely sleep-deprived, it’s a moment burned into memory.
The Descent Begins
After breakfast, we started back down.
But not before stopping — again — at the Base Camp sign for more photos. Because obviously.
We paused again at MBC, then continued down.
And down.
And down.
That day we covered 18km to Bamboo.
Familiar Places, New Energy
There’s something comforting about passing through villages you’ve already seen.
Deurali.
Himalaya.
Dovan.
At Dovan, we had lunch. Pizza. Or was it pasta? I forget. But it was delicious!
And finally — justice was served. Anni got her German chocolate cake.
Saeed nearly bought the entire cake shop.
We helped him reduce inventory significantly before lunch even arrived.
Survival Mode (and a Nap)
At one point, Bashe and I found beds in a dining area and took a nap.
No shame.
None.
We made it to Bamboo just before a massive hailstorm hit. Perfect timing. Or so we thought.
Three of us. One room. With a leaking roof.
Because why not?
Meanwhile, the rest of the group arrived later — soaked, battered, having been hit by hail the size of R1 coins.
But they made it.
And that’s what mattered.
The Final Push Out
The next day, we retraced our steps. And discovered something cruel: Going down earlier means going up later.
The steps were relentless.
Again.
We had lunch at the same tea house as Day 3. Pizza. Again.
No regrets.
Jhinu Danda & The Bridge
By mid-afternoon, we reached Jhinu Danda — our final stop.
Before the jeep ride back to Pokhara, we crossed a suspension bridge. 287 metres long. High enough to make you question your life choices.
Saeed, naturally, used this opportunity to torment Anni. Some friendships are built on support.
Others… on chaos.
Pokhara: Back to Life
That night in Pokhara, we had dinner with our guides and porters. A proper thank you. A celebration.
And the best part? Mariam was there. Fully recovered. Turns out it wasn’t AMS — it was gastro. Relief all around.
Pokhara deserved more time. No question.
It felt like we rushed through it. A missed opportunity.
But the hotels? Outstanding.
Nepal Hiking Team absolutely delivered — in both Pokhara and Kathmandu. The staff were patient, kind, and somehow handled our loud, chaotic group with grace.
The End… Or Not
The next morning, we flew back to Kathmandu.
Just like that… it was over.
Or at least, this chapter was.
As I boarded that flight, one thought was crystal clear: I’ll be back.
Not if.
When.
Was It Worth It?
After everything?
The chaos.
The delays.
The altitude.
The exhaustion.
The uncertainty.
Absolutely.
This was the best trek of my life. And considering how hard it was just to get to Nepal in the first place…
I still can’t quite believe we did it.
Against the odds.
In the middle of global chaos.
We did it.
And I will carry that with me for a very long time.
I don’t know if I’ll ever come this way again.
But I’m very, very glad I did.
Thanks
For pics vids and laughs the rogues gallery:
Well done to all of you! What an amazing achievement! Such an adventure! So proud of my little Boet who did this at his age! Mom snd Dad would never believe it, Butch! Well done!!
Butch was our stalwart and our emotional anchor! He is an invaluable member of the team.
What a journey, Annapurna Hardcore!!
Congratulations on braving the Himalayas
“Every step felt earned”. There is no doubt about this. Standing before those majestic mountains, you all definitely earned that sunrise ❤️
And what do you mean, you don’t know if you’d head back there?!? What about Manaslu 😂
I have so many trails I need to go back for… the bucket list is growing and growing. I may have to just move to Nepal!